Triumphrat

sjw867 · 11-14-2009, 12:17 PM

I was just offered a deal on a Routts 750 kit, Jugs and pistons for $300. The kit seems to be in good shape, and is offered by a Triumph mech, Who has been in the business for many years. I was wondering If any one has any thoughts on weather it is a good idea to go with the 750 kit. The bike I'm building is a '69 T120(chopper) and has a standard bore now. I don't know if The motor will run. It does have compression, But I plan to tear through the motor any way to replace rings, rod bearings, oil seals, clean sludge trap, throw a set of R lifters in it, etc. I'm Just learning about these old bikes. I'm not a mechanic by any means. So I was wondering if any body has any tips or some pros and cons of this kit. Also what do I have to do to the motor to make this kit work, Like with the oil passage, Tappet blocks, carb jetting, etc.
.Thanks Guys Any Input Helps.

shrugger · 11-14-2009, 12:49 PM

Did I read that right?!? Did you seriosly ask if the big bore is a good idea?
Now where did that "smack to the back of the head" smiley go.

I.m not sure if the Routte has the cam oiler passage or not.
If it doesn't then the oil passage will need to be plugged. Aside
from that it's pretty much plug, play, enjoy!
here's a pic of the plugged passage on mine. I'm going with the Morgo.

sjw867 · 11-14-2009, 01:12 PM

Thanks, What did you use to plug the oil passage?

shrugger · 11-14-2009, 01:33 PM

I didn't want it absolutely perminant. It's a threaded grub screw.
A ball bearing and sealer will work as well. But it's a little too perm.

And as with any change to motor performance the carbs will need
jetting. Thats all there is to it. Any other mods are optional.

Landshark · 11-14-2009, 02:02 PM

I have a Routts barrel with MAP Forged Pistons. I have only had the bike TR6R 1971 for 6 months and am still working on getting it together. The PO said it ran well with a 280 jet in the carb. It has a high lift cam, (don't know much about make etc as I have not split the cases). I had the head redone and installed stiffer springs, new SS valves and guides. The PO also installed a 4 valve oil pump, (I have been told it does not actually pump more oil, but does help prevent oil from back filling - (forgot the actual name for that condition!).

I had the original pistons but my mech dropped a washer down one of the cylinders by accident and fired her up, well, that is another story, but luckily the jugs were ok, just a rehone, but the piston was damaged, so I bought high perf. ones from MAP for $300. Before the washer accident, the middle compression ring on both pistons were stuck, so I had a ordered new rings from Bore Tech Batavia OH 513 625-8374. Cost $54 for 76mm rings. My bore is a standard 3.000" and was still in spec.

But as I said, I don't have any running experience with this big bore, once running was going to experiment with jets, fuel type etc. Also, my oil port is sealed over as well, helps with oil pressure I am told.

I would try the Routts, price seem good. You can always go back to the original 650 jugs easy enough.

NickL · 11-14-2009, 09:11 PM

Either the Routt or Morgo are great conversions, they suit the long rod motor well. I run my Morgo at 9.5-1 comp and use standard 30mm carbs with 200 main jets (standard filters) If you have the cases apart then the 750 inlet cam (i can't remember the number) with the 9989/9990 exgaust cam give very good results, with R followers. the use of a screw to blank off the oilway is the way to go as it can be returned to standard easily. Time the engine at about 36 degs to start with and see how you go, dependant on the comp ratio, fuel etc. this may vary a few degrees either way. I found that rounding the piston crowns and spending time blending the valve seats improves the head's performance enough to allow me to run at 35 degs with no loss of power.

Nick

shrugger · 11-14-2009, 09:59 PM

I'm guessing this is a used jug. Make sure it's in spec before you
assemble. Any good machinist can measure it for you.
Also, make sure its got the 2 dowel sleeves in the base. These keep
the jug from floating around off center on the crank case.

I've no doubt it will improve oil pressure. But the main reason for plugging
the oil passage is so it doesn't blow past the gasket and
dribble oil down the pretty, pretty case.