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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-09-2009, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Fork Tube Identification

I've been approaching work on my 64 Trophy with great anticipation and expecting some delays but I was somewhat dismayed when I saw this as I began to change the fork oil:



I believe I have a set of 1969 forks but my manuals only go up to 1968 so I don't readily have access to the thread sizes I'll need to pull the stanchions and do a real disassembly (warranted I believe due to the amount of water mixed into the fork oil seen above). I'd really appreciate any advice you more knowledgable fellows will grant me.

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 12:16 AM
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These are from a 1970 parts book, I believe the 69 is the same





I have a 1969 and on workshop manual also if that will help
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the schematic. No question, that's my triple tree and fork set up. It's the cap nuts that have me puzzled as my pitch gauge measured the threads at 28 but the workshop books don't list that diameter bolt as having that thread pitch. Then there's the matter of the cap nuts being slightly different in length and appearance; that is, the right doesn't quite match the left but the thread pitch seems the same. Since I can't used the motor/frame number as a guide I can't tell which of the two service tools I need to pull the stanchions.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 10:47 AM
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you can buy a universal fork assembly tool if that's what you're after?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fork-Assembly-...d=p3286.c0.m14

it's also shown here

http://cgi.ebay.com.my/FORK-ASSEMBLY...mZ140328585030
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 11:09 AM
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I believe you are correct in your assessmant that they are 28 tpi. I looked at the parts breakdown for my '68' and the numbers for the top cap and bottom bearing nuts are the same as what is listed for the '69'. I bought a set of stanchions from a reputable vendor after discussing the 28 tpi I was measureing and was told it had to be 26 tpi. When the stanchions arrived, the caps and nuts wouldn't thread in all the way. I sent the stanchions back and ordered a set from Franks Forks and they fit perfect.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the Franks Forks advice. I'll contact them to see if new tubes are feasible on my current budget (which, of course, is nothing).

And, there's more to this. I now believe I may have one 28 tpi stanchion tube and one 26 tpi but to confirm that I'll have to come up with a method of measuring the pitch inside the tubes. My pitch gauge doesn't have a 26 tpi leaf. That may take me a day of thinking before I can come up with a suitable method; although, I'm thinking of running a dowel in to capture the thread pattern and then measuring the dowel.

Since I'm unsure of the tubes and therefore the legs I think I need to disassemble them completely and I was wondering about the restrictor rod at the base. From what I can glean from the various manuals there are a couple of different types and the only way to know is to withdraw them. The method isn't clearly written; am I correct that the restrictor rod has a hex head and is captured in the base of the leg so that removing the bolt form the recess at the bottom frees it for removal?

All advice is most welcome.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 11:07 AM
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Hi Oldroadie,

"am I correct that the restrictor rod has a hex head and is captured in the base of the leg so that removing the bolt form the recess at the bottom frees it for removal?"

You are indeed correct, you may need to clamp the stanchion in something to stop it from turning (try not to damage the chrome!)

I hope this helps

Webby
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 11:19 AM
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On the thread pitch measurement, use the ones on the cap nuts, they're exposed and easy to get to. I'd compare one nut to the other and see if the threads mesh when held next to each other. If you have one that measures 28tpi and they dont mesh, the other is probably going to be 26 tpi as I think that was the only pitches they used for the forks. The bottom nuts will be the same pitch as the top of each fork so if you have a mismatched set of stanchions, and decide to buy a new set, you'll need to figure in one set of new top and bottom nuts unless you can find a vendor willing to send one stanchion of each thread.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-12-2009, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webby View Post
Hi Oldroadie,

"am I correct that the restrictor rod has a hex head and is captured in the base of the leg so that removing the bolt form the recess at the bottom frees it for removal?"

You are indeed correct, you may need to clamp the stanchion in something to stop it from turning (try not to damage the chrome!)

I hope this helps

Webby
Ah, Webby, you are so correct. A leather strap to hold the leg in the vise to prevent scarring and a couple of extensions on a deep well socket and out they came. At least the restrictors are identical so no worries there. The stanchion tubes? Jury's still out on them...

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