Triumphrat

ajslug · 09-09-2009, 03:48 AM

Ok, hello to all. I have searched up and down the threads and could not find a thing on correct or best practices for standard point ignition tuning and troubleshooting. Well, I must say, after reading the manual 5 times and tearing my bike apart another 5 times, I think I finally have it all down to a science. Here are some pointers for anyone interested:
1. Make sure when installing points, you put the plastic bushing over the wire. This insulates it from ground (earth) stud. Took me a few hours before figuring that out.
2. Set the point gap just AFTER the points open, right where the scribe mark is on the lobe. Do not set the gap at the point prior to closing or even at half way. This gap grows until the points fall. Also, make sure the moving point doesn't open into the wire's connector clip (or the solder holding the clip to the wire.) You almost need a magnifying glass to see the path of the opening point arm.
3. a good test for dirty points (even if they look clean) is to compare the spark you get from opening a point vs shorting the point wire to earth and letting go. I was puzzled and thought I had a spark leak or bad coil or condenser, but it was the worn point tips all along.

Don't even attempt to time the engine unless the above scenarios are corrected.

Since mine is a '70, it has the rotor inspection cover on the front of the primary where there is a scribe mark and timing pointer. This is not T.D.C. this is 38 degrees B.T.D.C. and this where the timing should be with the advance mechanism fully turned clockwise right when the points open. This setting can easily be verified with a timing light for each point set/spark plug with the engine running at or > 2000 rpm. A good starting point is to set the points' eccentric screw settings in the center, and the point plate in the center of adjustment. Start with either side (manual states left, but this is neither right or wrong.) It is symmetrical, but once you get the hang of it, it's really easy.

Also, unrelated, but a good idea for aligning rear wheel...
I used a $10 Home Depot Flooring Laser guide. This worked really well as I could run the laser up the center tread of the rear wheel and under the bike to the center of the front wheel while on the center stand. all simultaneously. It's kind of hard to explain, but even harder to take pictures since the laser illumination works best in the dark. This also requires laying down on the garage floor, aiming from the rear to the front of the bike. Probably any laser pointer could work, if balanced well (beam shining from the rear of bike)

If anyone wants pictures, I will try my best to post them.

DAVE M · 09-09-2009, 05:13 AM

a modification to the laser idea was in the uk's Classic Bike a few months ago.

The basic idea was to use two lasers, each mounted on a bit of L section alli. This was bungied to the rear wheel and a similar unit (minus lasers) was on the front. With a target board on the front one to alow for the width issue, the back wheel could be centred

gaillarry · 09-19-2009, 12:39 PM

I just installed new points and a little confused about the wire routing. When I got the bike the wires to the points passed through the slots in the timing plate - is that correct?

Also found the wires were on top of the plastic bushing, reading this post they should be under the bushing???

ajslug · 09-21-2009, 01:03 AM

No, not through the hole, thet is where the adjust screws go. they come in around the point plate (on the edge) You need to rotate the point plate about 60 deg clockwise

yes, they go under the bushing, insulating them from the studs they lock on to