Triumphrat

looseparts · 08-06-2009, 02:51 AM

Hello, before I wreck anything, perhaps I should ask how do I change the brakes on a Twin Leading Shoe front wheel?

Or more precisely, how do I disassemble the wheel?

I've attached 2 pictures - Left and right.

I'm confused. The wheel spindle, anchor plate nut and the brake anchor plate all spin together as a unit.

Do I somehow hold the anchor plate and unscrew the large nut? Is it left hand thread or normal? Anyone know what size it is?

Or... do I somehow pull it all apart from the other (left) side?

Thanks for your help : -)

DAVE M · 08-06-2009, 05:24 AM

stick the spindle on the non brake side into a vice and use a large spanner to undo the nut.
The direction of the nut will depend on the direction that the wheel rotates - normal action shouldn't cause the thing to dissassemble.

psasak · 08-06-2009, 04:30 PM

Good question, looseparts... I've been wondering about that very thing myself.

What size is that nut?

Due to the rise of the plate above the shoulder of the nut, getting a wrench on it is nearly impossible. I wondered about the size - thinking of trying to get a 3/4" drive socket on the sumbitch, the 3/4" hole will (maybe) fit over the axle and allow the socket to grab that nut(?)

How do others do it?

jimballard · 08-06-2009, 06:01 PM

Hi, Loose,
Buy a 1 1/8 deep socket and apply the brake (you can do this with the wheel off the bike) and tie the lever to the handlebar, unless someone holds it for you. It's a standard r.h. thread. Once you pull the assembled backing plate out, note the position of the shoes as it's a tls. When you re-assemble it, don't tighten the nut fully and tap the backing plate with a rubber hammer with the brakes slightly on. This will centralize the shoes and you may have to adjust the brake lever a bit as they centralize; then, undo the front brake arm pin and pull the front shoe's arm so that that shoe is as snug as the back shoe. If any adjustment is needed, do it by loosening the locknut on the clevis joint and turning the clevis as needed so that both shoes are touching the drum equally. Apply the brake firmly to tighten the nut as this keeps everything centered. If you have trouble undoing, or re-tightening the nut, you can wrap the opposite side of the axle with a good bit of tape and put a pipe wrench on it to hold it without scarring the axle (worked for me). Take your time, you'll probably find that it's easier than reading all of this.

So sayeth the "village idiot": Jim

looseparts · 08-06-2009, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimballard

Hi, Loose,
Buy a 1 1/8 deep socket and apply the brake (you can do this with the wheel off the bike) and tie the lever to the handlebar, unless someone holds it for you. It's a standard r.h. thread. Once you pull the assembled backing plate out, note the position of the shoes as it's a tls. When you re-assemble it, don't tighten the nut fully and tap the backing plate with a rubber hammer with the brakes slightly on. This will centralize the shoes and you may have to adjust the brake lever a bit as they centralize; then, undo the front brake arm pin and pull the front shoe's arm so that that shoe is as snug as the back shoe. If any adjustment is needed, do it by loosening the locknut on the clevis joint and turning the clevis as needed so that both shoes are touching the drum equally. Apply the brake firmly to tighten the nut as this keeps everything centered. If you have trouble undoing, or re-tightening the nut, you can wrap the opposite side of the axle with a good bit of tape and put a pipe wrench on it to hold it without scarring the axle (worked for me). Take your time, you'll probably find that it's easier than reading all of this.

So sayeth the "village idiot": Jim

Jim and all - Thanks for your prompt and insightful info - There's no way I would have thought of some of all aspects of these procedures. This forum is fantastic help.

I have a short list compiling for a Harbor Freight visit. I will add a deep 1 1/8 socket -

Anybody want to recommend pullers Harbor Freight may have that will be useful to my for an engine tear-down (I presently own none).

Thanks, Jon

NeoDutch59 · 08-07-2009, 12:27 AM

1-1/8" is correct, find the thinnest wall that you can so it will seat fully. I ended up with an impact socket, 6 point because the chrome sockets were too wide and would not fit correctly. My guy let me bring the wheel in and try until we found one that fit the best.
Good luck

jimmy bush · 08-07-2009, 12:46 AM

I bought a set of plumbers sockets at a hardware store. They come on what looks like a big safety pin. There are 5 sockets with a different size on each end ranging from 21/32 to 1 7/16 for a total of 10 sizes. You turn them with a little rod that comes with the set. I've used it on other recesssed nuts too AND THEY WERE CHEAP. I don't know what size I used but my set doesn't have the 1 1/8 size but it worked fine on my 68 Bonnie.

jimballard · 08-07-2009, 12:42 PM

Darn, it, Jimmy...
I have a set of plumber's sockets and never thought of them when I bought the deep socket that I use. 6 point is a must and the nut HAS to be REALLY tight.

Don't ask how I know about that last sentence: Jim

looseparts · 08-08-2009, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimballard

Darn, it, Jimmy...
I have a set of plumber's sockets and never thought of them when I bought the deep socket that I use. 6 point is a must and the nut HAS to be REALLY tight.

Don't ask how I know about that last sentence: Jim

Well, we actually *do* want to know the hows and whys and what-happened regarding your last sentence. Sounds like you lived to tell (thankfully).

The nut on my wheel turns out to be bigger than an inch and an eighth. I bought a set of 1/2 inch deep impact sockets and the 1-1/8 was too small and the (next larger) 1-1/4 would not go in the recess. Got home from the store and measured the nut to be 1.200" - see photo.

Napa had a 1-3/16 deep impact that I had to lightly file all 6 flats to get it over my nut and... voilà - I got it off !!

Good news is the brakes look quite good and now I have some new tools : -)

Landshark · 08-08-2009, 10:13 PM

Tagging on to this thread, same issue about removal of nut. I got the nut off then used a spray brake cleaner and was impressed how well it works to clean everything. I took the pads off and put a bevel on the leading edge and new high temp grease on the parts and now am trying to get the springs on and brake pads back together. I have a 1971 conical wheel and my shop manual explains the procedure but I am having a hell of a time and cannot get the brake pads back together. My other problem is how do you remove the wheel bearing seals? No problem taking off the LH thread outring and removing the circle clip on the other side, but how do you get the seals out?