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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 08-03-2009, 07:36 AM   #1 (permalink)
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the sound of a big end seize?

I may have killed my bonnie.
There is smoke coming from the breather and there is a power loss once it warms up.
Also there is a sort of ringing sound (constant) from the engine that wasn't there a few days ago. I fear I let the oil get too low and cooked something.

What is an early sign of a big end going? A whiney ringing?

derek

Oh, I just poped out to check the plugs etc and they were looking lean for the first time ever. Odd. Next I kicked it over a few times and it seemed smooth. One odd thing was that there was a hiss/gush of air from the breather tube each rotation. Maybe I have only noticed this as I don't often crank the motor in such ambient conditions.
Normal?
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Last edited by delrazor; 08-03-2009 at 08:04 AM. Reason: more to add
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:27 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I hope you haven't delrazor,
big ends make a big noise knock knock
a little end is more rattly, like a stick along metal railings.

Now a sort of ringing sound could be a cracked piston, this would
also produce smoke from breather and a hissing sound.

You need to at least remove the head for a look,

but before you do whip out the crank case sump plug,
use a clean container for later inspection of oil.
If it has run out of oil there will be evidence on the strainer.
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hmmmmm.

http://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vi...-retarded.html

Is there a connection I wonder?
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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could have been but I chickened out and didn't run it at full advance.
I put it back to where it was until I had time to check the rotor lines from first principles.
The oil level got me by surprise and I am afraid I may be rebuilding wearing a dunce cap.
derek
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skidemon44 View Post
Hmmmmm.

http://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vi...-retarded.html

Is there a connection I wonder?
You got something there Skidemon44
It could be over advanced and causing pinking (knocking, pre-ignition)
which can sound metallic, like a little end.
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Old 08-03-2009, 10:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delrazor View Post
I may have killed my bonnie.
There is smoke coming from the breather and there is a power loss once it warms up.
Also there is a sort of ringing sound (constant) from the engine that wasn't there a few days ago. I fear I let the oil get too low and cooked something.
Delrazor,

Oh I hate to even ask.. But can you remember, without running
your engine again, where the ringing sound was comming from.
Left side, right side, right below the tank? And How low was the
oil?

Pookybear
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:39 AM   #7 (permalink)
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the oil was very low. Maybe as low as you can go. Today I did 15 miles and started to wonder if the noise was always there but hidden by the really loud pipes I had on. Wishful thinking I'd say.
Today I found the rotor has about a millimeter movement in and out (crank) so either There is a spacer missing on the timing side or .... time for a rebuild.
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Old 08-04-2009, 07:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delrazor View Post
the oil was very low. Maybe as low as you can go. Today I did 15 miles and started to wonder if the noise was always there but hidden by the really loud pipes I had on. Wishful thinking I'd say.
Today I found the rotor has about a millimeter movement in and out (crank) so either There is a spacer missing on the timing side or .... time for a rebuild.
Delrazor,

Do not panic yet. I would check a few thing first before the big
rebuild. Do like Plewsy stated earlier and remove the sump plug,
and take a look at what comes out of the crankcase and see
what is on the strainer.

If you oil was low enough it may have become airated, and caused
what is know as a "soft seize".

But to start look at the sump oil.

Pookybear
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Old 08-05-2009, 12:35 AM   #9 (permalink)
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ok thanks.
another interesting one is the timing. I Double checked the BTDC on the crank notch and the correct point on the rotor was about 8mm to the right (anticlockwise) of the mark. To set it to this the boyer stator had to be moved even further advanced than before. I ran it like this for ten minutes today and while it improved performance a lot, the kick backs became more frequent.

What I DID notice when strobing my mates bonnie (exact same setup... well supposedly) at idle the bike is quite retarded, getting up to the mark at 2500 or so.

MINE does not do this, but kicks off at the mark and stays there.

I am going in....

derek
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Old 08-05-2009, 03:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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inspection results-
My tealeaves include some small chunks of what is probably aluminium. Tomorrow I'll rinse it out and do some forensics.

The lateral movement in the crank is about .2mm and is not due to a missing washer. I can see the pressure washer in there.

Also the movement STARTS with the cogs teeth lined up perfectly with the intermediate, and moves right. This makes the pinion gear protrude slightly from the intermediate teeth.

off to search for plans to build an engine stand

derek
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