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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 08-02-2009, 04:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1970 T120R Bonneville Help Carb

Any help here would be appreciated. On one carb only the throttle slide is sticking. It seems if I crank throttle hard on and let it release quickly the slide will go all the way down. If the throttle is gently acclerated and then released the slide seems to get caught about 1/2 way up. I have tried everything I can think of but to no avail. Any help would sure be appreciated.
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Old 08-02-2009, 05:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hi LGSpiker,and welcome
Turn your throttle until the slide sticks, then crack off the carb manifold nut
you will probably find the slide snaps down,
if it does, you might! get away with careful re-tightening of both carb nuts.
if not you want to reface the carb, using a piece of glass with grinding paste or fine wet and dry.
have you seen these? in the first vid I reface the float bowl,
using the same technique as you should use on the carb flange

http://www.triumphrat.net/vintage-te...air-video.html

you might need some work on the slides, but do the nuts one first
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Old 08-03-2009, 10:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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It is really common to have warped carb bodies (=sticking slides) because people over-tighten the nuts holding the carb flange to the mainfold. I always use a little bit of grease on a nice, new o-ring and tighten just snug. The o-ring is creating the seal, not smashing the metal mating surfaces together on the carb / manifold.

I agree with Plewsy, try checking the nuts and make sure they aren't over-tightened. You could always take a bit of fine emery paper and hit the slides where they are rubbing, but that is taking away material and letting more air past the slides, which is a common problem with worn Amals.

Cheers
Tyler
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Old 08-03-2009, 11:20 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks still having problems

Thanks for the info. Seemed to have solved the problem as the carb nuts loosened and then retightened carefully seem to do the trick. Now however bike idle is rough and seems to die especially if given a little throttle when it is idling. Also one side is running hotter than the other. Any help again greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Check to make sure you aren't getting any air leaks at the carb / manifold.. If you are sucking air on one side it would make an erratic idle and could also make one side run lean (hot).

One way is to spray some carb cleaner around the manifold area while the bike is running, if it revs up then it is sucking air in where you sprayed it

Cheers
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks

Will give that a try this pm. Will post my results. Thanks for all the help this forum is pretty cool.
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Old 08-03-2009, 05:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks fellows one more question

Seem to have the carb throttle slide solved thanks again. Changed out the plugs as well and idle seems ok now and it runs smoothly. Still have the problem of one side running hotter than the other. Heat gun shows exhaust pipes at same temperature however there seems to be about a 30 degree difference in the temperature at the header pipes. Is this unusual and if so where do I go next. Thanks again for all your help it is greatly appreciated.

Larry
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Old 08-03-2009, 10:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hi LGSpiker,

I thought it would be a good idea to check rich/lean mixture by the temperature of the headers. Can you tell us more about this heat gun and how it works.

It would also be good to know what temperature is normal if anyone knew this.

Thanks,

Henry
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Old 08-04-2009, 10:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Still having heat issue

This tool that I used is a heat sensor. It is a battery operated laser gun that sends out a laser and records the heat. I am guessing that my carbs are not in sync if the temperature is different on each side but was hoping to get confirmation on that. I am not the most knowledgeable person when it comes to mechanics.

Last edited by LGSpiker; 08-04-2009 at 10:47 AM.
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