Triumphrat

mutley72 · 08-02-2009, 08:41 AM

On the T140 80ftlb is required. Seems like a lot, does this need to be maintained or is it just required when squeezing the pinions in place?
I see the cam pinions have left hand threads, why do they when the pinions all rotate clockwise?

1981 T140ES

epynt1050 · 08-02-2009, 02:25 PM

Factory torques are for when the nut is full home ie when the pinion is in the final position. 80 ftlb is not that high a figure and you would not the nut to come loose.
Left hand thread will be to reduce chance of vibrating loose. Note, Crankshaft pinion nut has right hand thread as crankshaft rotates in opposite direction.

mutley72 · 08-02-2009, 05:49 PM

I was afraid you'd say that. How do you tighten these ? I've been torqueing the crankshaft pinion nut while locking the timing gear with a socket on the inlet cam pinion nut. Pretty sure I've stripped the thread on the latter now..

Plewsy · 08-02-2009, 06:08 PM

Hi mutley72, and welcome to TR

Doesn't look good for you

if you have stripped it.
Hope its the nut and not the cam, that will mean a crank case split

80lbs sounds a lot to me, as the other end only 40.
you can lock the crank a few ways, but you will have to tell us more
are your barrels on?
is the head off?
it the primary side done?
is the engine in the bike?
and a few more

mutley72 · 08-03-2009, 04:37 AM

Thanks Plewsey,
I'm sure the threads had it, It's so loose and won't come off.
The engine's in the frame, head and barrels are on. Primary cover drive cover off. I had to renew the crankshaft pinion when a bolt from the starter gears damaged it. Converted back to kick start version.
Now praying the damaged nut's weaker than the camshaft thread.

Plewsy · 08-03-2009, 08:02 AM

Ooo! mutley72, that nut sounds bad

with careful use of file, grinder, dremel, junior hacksaw you should be able to split the nut.
If you continue trying to screw it off you may cause more damage to the cam.

To lock up your crank you can put the bike in gear and lock up the back brake,
Or I would use the other end crank nut and do them both to around fifty lbs'

If the head was off you can also bolt a bar across the combustion chambers and pack the pistons.

With the head on, you can use thick string or cord,
you have to get both valves closed (compression stroke) on one cylinder,
with the piston slightly down BTDC
then fill the chamber with string through the plug hole

the cord stops the piston coming up, you must get the rods coming up in the right direction.
best of luck on that nut.

mutley72 · 08-23-2009, 11:00 AM

Wooo ! I dremmeled the sides down to the thread with a small grinding disc then cut across the top.Bingo ! off came the wrecked nut. I Cleaned the thread on the cam with a spare nut and some oil winding it on and off a few times. Fitted another nut and torqued it up to 80 ft lb, (used stud locktite). All good, engine running ok , oil pressure good just the timing to do now. If I'd got up earlier I could have made the 50th anniversary at Gaydon. Thanks for your help

Plewsy · 08-23-2009, 11:15 AM

Great! news

that mutley72
where you careful with the camshaft oil seal
did you see these its me doing my oil seals.
http://www.triumphrat.net/vintage-te...20r-video.html

GrandPaulZ · 08-23-2009, 12:26 PM

mutley,

You were >THAT< close!

mutley72 · 08-23-2009, 07:51 PM

I know, that was a close shave..
Plewsy , I love your video's.Very nicely done, much better than Senor Manuel Haynes. I was worried about the crankshaft oil seal - didn't heat the casing, just banged it in with a socket - I am a barbarian. Luckily I have an oil pressure gauge - it shows a steady ready at steady revs and reads well over 60 till she's warm.
Did 50 miles today and changed the oil again when I got back. Only one leak visible from the rev counter drive.