Triumphrat

mutley72

Hi mates.Refitting the Lucas timing gear and no sign of any key on the cam shaft for the key way in the tapered end of the reluctor. What to do ?
T140ES 1981 with 5PU pick up plate

mutley72

I can now just make out where there once was a key on the end of the cam.Will strobe from there. I can see Lucas upgraded the 5PU , is there any point upgrading ? it was working fine before on this bike.

Rochdale Cowboy

Hi Mutley,

Just a suggestion that you check the timing on both cylinders as I had a 10deg difference when I was setting mine up.
Couldn't get it near enough so I put my contact breakers back on.

Good luck
RC

pookybear

Mutley72,

Yes there should be a little pin like device that corrosponds with
the notch in the reluctor. It could have been damage by a
previous install.

Pookybear

Plewsy

Hi mutley72, and welcome
the locating pin makes the job easier but is not necessary
set your engine up for timing
compression stroke right hand cylinder,
crankshaft at 38deg BTDC
put in the reluctor and bolt, do not tighten,
put in you stator and pillar bols, do not tighten.
Turn the stator to mid position in slot and lightly nip up,
then turn the reluctor until there is 4.5mm gap between the extreme edge of the reluctor and the extreme edge of pick up and nip up.
Slowly turn the motor until the reluctor is directly below the pick up and adjust that gap to 0.2-0.3mm
This should be close enough to get a strobe on it,
when you strobe it you need at least 3500rpm

mutley72

Excellent advice thanks . This reluctor and pick up look to be an early version of the RITA setup. I'm going to put the reluctor so the key way corresponds to where I can see a pin used to live on the cam. I marked the positions of the pillar bolts when I dismantled it all. I'll start there and strobe it using the mark on alternator. cheers everyone

Rochdale Cowboy

Mutley,
As Plewsy points out the 4.5mm gap is the setting I could not achieve on mine on both poles of the reluctor. As it was I chose the right cylinder first, then checked the other one, to see a larger gap of around 5mm, giving a advance of ~10deg.
If I'd have chosen the other cylinder, then I would be running excessively retarded on it, well down on power.
I didn't get as far as running the engine before I decided that the only way to get both cylinders right was with the original contact breakers.
I think the problem with my reluctor was the end was orbiting as I could get the 0.2mm gap on both poles.
This may be a problem with the camshaft location, but the CB cam assembly seems to run true.

Good Luck
RC