Any of that O-ring chain with the sealed rollers is too wide for the drive tunnel and won't fit. Other than standard chain, the only other alternative is to go to a 520 chain which means that you have to get your sprockets machined or replaced to go to the narrower gauge (~1/4").
Here's some further discussion: http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55658
Go with Reynold if you can. I hear Elite is good. There are others out there that are good. It should be H rated for heavy duty. Your parts supplier will be able to tell which are no good. Avoid economy and chinese chains
I am using Iwis 530 standard chain on my 67 650. It is very good and is lasting better than two Renolds chain I have used recently but Renolds is a sure bet otherwise.
So I called a popular classic Brit parts supplier who lists Renold, but says that he is not going to carry them anymore because they doubled in cost for no apparent reason.
Suggesting a much lower cost popular alternative (from off the coast of California) until which time when 520 conversion kits are available when high strength O ring chains of 520 size will be applicable.
Has anyone fit an RK or D.I.D?
My late model Thunderbird came with factory installed D.I.D. but that is a chain is a different animal.
Have not to date, but expect my next chain to be DID.
Have used these chains on a highly tuned IT400 dirt bike that produced around 40bhp, similar to what these old tarts are producing. DID was all good for that bike. RR
If your "Popular Brit Bike Supplier" said that he had a good quality chain that fits your bike why wouldn't you take his word for it. Its like buying any other part for your bike. All these various parts are all made by some aftermarket manufacturer - some good, some bad. If your supplier is selling junk parts and at inflated prices, he can't be so "Popular" now can he.
I said "popular" to avoid mentioning names. Since Jeff Moore hung it up I have no particular loyalty to any vendors now.
But around here that Renold will run about $115 to get it home. The last time I bought the Renold it was under $50 so that's not making sense for a basic non O ring.
I wanted to search all the options to learn something rather than just put something on without knowing why. Good idea?
You can Google the brand the dealer was recommending. The other two brands you named are on the web and I have heard of both brands but have no personal history with either. Renold chain, although not O ring is certainly not "low capacity." It has a very high tensile strength. In a sealed and lubricated enviroment it is probably the best chain you could use. The problem with bikes is dirt and sporadic lubrication. Chain is one of those things where you get what you pay for.
By way of alternative, chain like tires and batteries, can be gotten from anybody. Ask a reputable local bike dealer (any brand of bike) what they would recommend in place of Renold chain. If not in stock, they can order in within two days exactly what you need. Talking face to face will get you all the answers
D.I.D. 530 Standard, Non-O ring
107 links for mine but that always seems to be information that conflicts between publications and listings, so verify your own.
After viewing the attached chart (thanks Arty) the brand new chain given to me by a Mate appears to be a Reynolds 110056 (136SR) it has fitted up to the sprockets correctly. The chain which came with the bike is a 530NZ (DID) and is much heavier to look at and appears to be a Reynolds equivilant 119059 (136RS).
Will the 110056 be of sufficient strength or should I go for the heavier wider chain?
All the very best from Kiwiland for the coming New Year and, safe riding.
If you are looking for O or X ring chains. They are readily available in 520 width as I have used then on a modern race bike. As for sprockets for our old bikes then I've not seen any. More than likely you could get them made but that will add significantly to costs.
I don't know what model or year your bike is - however the T140 1978 Owners Hand Book 5/8"- pitch 3/8" wide and 106 Links .
If the old chain is still in place :
Slacken off the tension in the rear chain .
Remove the spring Link .
Thread on the New chain to open Sprink link & pull through untill the old chain is off and the new chaim is in place.
Conect up the new chain with a new spring link and retension.
Hi, I just went through the whole chain process recently. If you need a 1/2 link, Renold will pretty much be your only choice. I went to the shop (Raber's) & we laid out the different chains side by side.
While some manufacturers may make the narrow side plate chains, Reynold is the only commonly available one. Reynold makes 2 types of 1/2 links, this is important. Riveted & cotter pined. Make sure you get the riveted one if 1/2 link is needed. I ended up with Reynold, riveted 1/2 link. $125. Diamond is my other choice. There are different Diamond 530. The smaller plate (still thicker than Reynold) & the heavy Harley size plate, which will rub on trans case. DID & Diamond are same size plate/link. Reynold has thinner side plates & shorter rivet to match so you get more trans clearance. All the chains are strong enough, even the 400cc DID. The new Reynold synergy chain, which is what you'd get has taller side plates (meaning less hour glass shape) which might give more strength. On the scale Reynold chain is a fair amount lighter which is more efficient. I've only put 300 miles on the Reynold so far, & it shows no wear at all & I didn't have to readjust it yet. I simply think the narrower plates & lower weight is better. They are costlier, but I think that makes it worth it.
The Gyronaut world record Bonneville bike was at the show recently. Was most surprised to see a standard 530 size Reynold chain between the 2 motors. It had a 1/2 link! 1/2 links are not as strong, but strong enough for the record! There was no rear chain on the bike. These motors were spun up to 7500rpm for the record.
Don
As far as I've been able to figure out, the standard DID chain is the strongest 530 chain available that will fit without having sprockets machined etc. I hope that's correct because its what I've just bought for my T140 project.
I believe Rob (Snakeoil) did some research into this, or at least into Renold chains, not all that long ago and discovered that Renold's specs were not all that great? Hope I've not got this too far wrong Rob?
I think I may have lost the thread here, but in case it's any help to anyone, I have a 108 link DID chain for 21/47 sprockets. I don't like 1/2 links. There's plenty of adjustment on a T140 rear wheel/swinging arm.
Hi Eye, On my 73 tr7rv, I found 106 was really too tight all the way forwards. 108 brought the axle nearly to the rear end of adjuster bolts, but there was a about 3/32" of axle slot remaining so you could use longer bolts. Could use 108, then cut to 106 when chain wears. I have stock 20,47 as you should. I was going to change front to 21, but I don't know if the motor can pull it with our gas. My bike wants to ping so bad as is, a 21 would make it that much worse. That's why I just got the 107.
Don
For those in the UK attending shows,meet up with The Chain Man company.A small company and the man selling is the owner.Ask for a chain to fit and he gives you more links,plus half link,plus split link.You just know its going to fit after buying it.
He often attends bike club meetings in the evenings.Very enthusiastic old boy
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