Triumphrat

jimmy bush · 05-22-2009, 10:07 PM

I spent nearly all day in the garage standing at the bench grinder cleaning rust, dirt and grease off boxes of nuts and bolts. I tried to sort them into like threads. What a mess. There must be al least 6 different threads. Any way, I marked down some of the markings off the heads and would greatly appreciate some help identifying what is what. Here goes.
bolt head marking: AUTO/R; R/O/V; SN M WS;/GKN/S/; C (inside a 3 point sunburst); a symbol that looks like a key hole with a C as the hole; M (inside a 3 point sunburst); an X with N,S, and M around it; a 3 point sunburst with a small triangle between the bottom rays; a 3 point sunburst with GSF between the top rays and S off the the right; L5, RUBERY OWEN across the top arc and S50-60 on the bottom arc; RUBERY OWEN across the top arc and T55-65 on the bottom arc; BRADLEYS across the top arc and R on the bottom arc; a 3 point sunburst; 1038/CP;DORMAN over 7/16; GSF over D; KAR; R B over W; and L; and KS. I suspect some of the markings are manufacture logos but am hoping some of them can tell what the thread is. I found two over lapping circles on some of the nuts and some of the nuts had a notch in the edges. Thanks in advance.
Jim.

pookybear · 05-22-2009, 10:49 PM

Jimmy,

Most marking and letters are different by the maker, as in
their logo. Some of the markings are for the grade of the
bolt, like grade 5 and so. The only way to sort out the bolts
is to use tread guages to get the right pitch and then size the
the bolt to know what standard it is on like SAE, Metric or
a Whitworth variant. There are at least 14 different styles
of threads based on the Whitworth system, maybe half of
that on the SAE system, and a few for the Metric.

Pookybear

PS
I just keep mine in a coffee can and fish around for a fun
afternoon, never know what is going to bite.

jimmy bush · 05-23-2009, 12:35 AM

Pooky, I don't like to fish, for fish or hardware. Thats why I seperated all my nuts and bolts with like threads into parts bins. I first seperated them by size then into groups that looked close thread wise. I found a nut/bolt combination that fit together nicely. Then I went through the group to get all the bolts and studs that nut would thread on to correctly. Then I went through the nuts and collected the nuts that fit the first bolt. I have several different threads in each size. Two (different) fine thread, 1 a bit coarser (I think this is the SAE thread or is it NAS), and one very coarse. They are seperated by thread and size but nuts, bolts and studs share the same bin so the threads don't get mixed. I still have to fish through the nuts and studs if I want a bolt. If I knew what thread they were I could label the bins and have nuts, bolts, screws, and studs in seperate bins. I guess I could label the like thread bins with a letter but that wouldn't help if the book called for a CEI thread and I didn't know which bin letter was CEI. ???Have I always been this anal or is it a recent developement???

t100rc · 05-23-2009, 03:48 AM

I'm pretty sure the 'Bradleys' bolts are for the shocks ...

Caulky · 05-23-2009, 05:29 AM

Yes, you need a set of thread gauges.
Most of the engine fasteners, on my `74 T120V is UNF or if in ally UNC.
The carb and some engine/frame stuff is CEI/cycle thread 26tpi.
Traditionally, electrical fittings used BA threads.
Some items may be pipe threads (BSP) or if tapered (BSTP).
If components are new replacements, dont be surprised if they`re metric threads.
A good source for thread data is here:
http://www.britishfasteners.com/threads/index.html

epynt1050 · 05-23-2009, 05:46 AM

Rubery Owen and GKN are UK bolt manufacturers. Dorman (Dorman Long) is a UK steel supplier and engineering group so probably also made bolts. Some of the other marking will indicate grade of steel used.

To overcome this same problem, I collected new examples of each nut and bolt type and size, (eg 5/8 Whitworth,1/4 UNC etc) and stored the separately in marked draws so giving myself a reference by which to check. It has simplified and speeded things greatly. To replace I always use proper "Engineering " bolts.

The later factory spares manuals identified bolts/nuts/screws/washers by part no. and then gave a chart relating part no to a full spec inc steel grade, threaded length etc

Not sure which model you have but if you can advise I will check if I have the data.

jimmy bush · 05-23-2009, 11:37 AM

Thanks for the offer epynt1050. I have a 1968 T120 in riding condition but I have a shed full of parts from the 1950's to about 1978 with a mixture of loose hardware from all of it. There is a local shop that used to work on Triumph but the owner decided to concentrate on Harleys and sold me his inventory of new and used British parts (Triumph, Norton, & BSA). I still haven't figured out why I bought it but it must have sounded like a good idea at the time. I used quite a bit of it in putting my 68 in riding condition and have tentative plans to build a "Bitsa street tracker" from some of the other stuff. Having the right hardware could save me some $$$ as that stuff is not cheap but I have to know what is what.
Caulky, thanks for the link. I will print out the pertinant pages and use it to help me decipher what I have to what extent I can.