Triumphrat

WHATHAVEIDONE

Just bought a 78 T140E with overhauled engine. I only have a few hours running time on it. When I started it this evening I could here a snapping sound, I discovered the outer head bolts on the right side were loose. I was getting compression leak at the head gasket. Looking through the manual I got in the mail just this afternoon I see I was to have re-torqued the head. Do I need to remove the rocker boxes to get to the four inner bolts, or can I just remove the rocker box bolts to gain access. I do not have the special tool listed 61-7010 to tighten those bolts, is there something I can substitute. Which of the bolts are 3/8 which are 5/16 so I get the torque specs right. I can tell right now that I have a lot to learn about these bikes. I have kept a 63 TR4 sports car on the road for 40 years. I have an early 50's Alfa powered one off sports/racer and a Lancia Beta. I should be able to figure this thing out, eventually.

Caulky

For your cylinder head there are two 3/8" bolts in the centre, which need torquing to 15 lb ft.
All the others are 5/16" and are to be torqued to 18 lb ft.
The rocker boxes will have to come off, re-torqued to 5 lb ft, and the tappets gapped.
The special tool is to tighten the `allen` socket bolts.
I used a cut-off allen key with a socket...3/8 I think.

REG

on my t140e i have had head off twice recently. to retorque i only have to remove headsteady to gain access to 2 centre bolts ( 1 & 2 in tightening seqence ) and remove 2 large bolts from top of each rocker box to get at bolts ( 3 4 5 6 )i use 3/8 drive torque wrench with 3/8 hex socket. for bolts inside rocker boxes you have to insert socket thru rocker box then fit wrench to it. find it takes at least 3 retorques to get it down tight. need to adjust tappets after each retorque.

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T140E

Rochdale Cowboy

Sorry Caulky, but the some of the info you provided needs correcting.
The 2 inner studs are 5/16 diam and sleeve nuts with 3/8 a/f hex drive.
These need a dry torque setting of 16 ft lbf.
The inner rocker studs are 3/8 diam and sleeve nuts with 3/8 a/f drive and need a torque setting of 18 ft lbf.
They need the hex driver tool, or a hex key, 3/8 ring spanner in a torque multiplier mode. I made a hex key and 1/2 sq drive to go straight into the torque wrench as the head room between rocker box and frame is not enough. Removal of the rocker boxes is a least favoured option as all gaskets will need to be disturbed and renewed.
The outer hex head bolts are 9/16 a/f and are torqued to 18 ft lbf.
The service info for torquing a new composite gasket is tighten all 3/8 to 22 ft lbf and 5/16 studs to 18 ft lbf, fire her up to full temp. When cold they should be retorqued to the 18 for 3/8 and 16 for 5/16.
Reset the tappets and after 500 miles, retorque the head again to the same values.
It also begs the question whether the cylinder head gasket, having leaked, can be trusted to seal at all after all this work has been done. If the original overhauling was incorrectly carried out the head may be warped or studs stretched?
If you were to look at the sealing area between the 5/16 studs and the bores, you'd appreciate that little needs to go wrong and it all goes wrong.
i don't want to sound unduly negative here, but this is why we have forums to share opinions.
All the best with whatever you choose to do.

REG

nice 1 ROCHDALE COWBOY
25 yrs ago i had a mate that had emigrated with his parents from Ackrington?? his father had a cassette recording that had been made at the pub of a comedian calling himself the rochdale cowboy. full of great humour - nuns on pogo sticks on the M1 - it hard to be a cowboy in rochdale cos the spurs dont fit right on yr clogs -etc. the copy must have been made in the late 60s?

have you heard of this guy?
that old copy be long gone now as we thrashed it. b great to hear once more thou

cheers

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T140E

WHATHAVEIDONE

Thank you very much for your help. I removed the tank and the torque stay, torqued the bolts and adjusted the clearances on the tappets. I took it for a short ride, will put some more time on it tomorrow.

I am over 60 and have not ridden a bike in almost 40 years. I'll get this all figured out eventually. The good think is, I guess anyway, is I don't have a job so I can devote some time to it.

Again, thank you very much.

bonnietiler

Mike Harding was the culprit:
He followed Rochdale Cowboy with the less successful BlackPuddin' Bertha
He was a mega Comedian on the Theatre circuit rivalling Billy Connolly in the day.
But like Billy originally a Folk Singer, who told joke in between songs.
He has a popular Folk show on the BBC now.
Cheers
BonnieT

Dave W

Sorry, this is an old link but to avoid repetition, I searched and it asked the question I wanted to know - Seems like a right pain if you do it properly (ie retorque the inner bolts under the rocker box) When I bought my bike these four bolts were loose, so I guess somebody left these out.

Is is okay to leave the head steady off for that 5 mile run, otherwise I think the bike would have cooled down by the time I retorque the bolts and nuts!

Rochdale Cowboy

Hi Dave,
As far as leaving out the head steady, don't!
You'll need to let her cool down cold before retorquing them anyway.
good luck
RC

coloradobob

I use a craftsman 3/8" allen socket on my 1/2" torque wrench for the 4 bolts through the rocker box. I have an old style torque wrench and do not have to remove the head stay for the 2 middle head bolts. I insert the socket through the rocker box with enough reach but can get the socket in the middle 2 without interfering. It takes 5 minutes. The head bolts loosened twice after the rebuild. I'm with REG to tighten 3 times. Bob

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