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Classic, Vintage & Veteran For Coventry and Meriden Models. Anything pre-Hinckley goes.

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Old 05-03-2009, 06:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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boyer electronic ignition help

I've replaced my old point system of my 68' trophy with a boyer system and can't figure out how to start the timing. Do I set timing as if there where points, or do I just bring the right piston to TDC? I have the Boyer instructions, but point 16 just says "Set engine to the full advance timing mark on compression".
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Old 05-04-2009, 05:13 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 68tr6c View Post
I've replaced my old point system of my 68' trophy with a boyer system and can't figure out how to start the timing. Do I set timing as if there where points, or do I just bring the right piston to TDC? I have the Boyer instructions, but point 16 just says "Set engine to the full advance timing mark on compression".
The service bulletin, 294 issued in Feb 68, illustrates changes in the way the B (650) engines were referenced for full advance.
However, in all cases this is stipulated as 38deg BTDC.
So in answer to your query, this is the setting, not TDC.

Good luck
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Old 05-04-2009, 04:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yep, I'm with Rochdale

Do you have the slots in the crank, with a small hole behind the timing side (right hand) cylinder at the base, where with a bolt you can locate the fully advanced (38 BTDC), and the TDC positions? My '71 has it, can't remember whether '68 should have it.

Anyhow, I set my Boyer with the engine fully advanced, then first with the red dot lining up through the hole in the Boyer pickup plate, getting the engine to run and then revving to approx 5000 rpm and checking it with a strobe (still with the red dot appearing through the hole). Should work that way.

-Ville
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Old 05-04-2009, 08:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I f I may can I make one small correction.

You should check your final timing adjustment with a strobe via the timing mark on your rotor and not on the Boyer timing plate. Checking the timing that way will only confirm the ignition timing relative to the Boyer's plate. Even if you were out ten degrees, the strobe will still confirm the plate's position.

What you really want to do is to check the timing of the spark relative to the crankshaft position - and by extension the piston's position. This you do with the strobe aimed at the timing marks on your rotor. Ref your bike briefly to 5000 RPM and the timing mark should stay steadily behind the indicator pin.
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Old 05-05-2009, 04:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I stand corrected

For some reason I didn't have timing marks on my rotor (at least the type pictured in Haynes).

We did do temporary marks with nail polish, but in essence that's the same thing, right?

-Ville
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Old 05-05-2009, 08:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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No, I don't the hole to the TDC indicator. Now when I use the timing wheel, am I going for 38 deg BTDC, or half that due to the cam turning half as fast?
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Old 05-10-2009, 06:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Crank degrees

The normal timing references for valves and ignition are always crank degrees.
In this specific instance 38 degrees BTDC is definitely crank.

Good luck.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:38 AM   #8 (permalink)
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If I may put in my 5 eggs.
When you use hole behind the barrels, there are two slots in the flywheel.
One is at TDC and the other is the timing mark (38 BDTC).
So initially, you need to find the TDC slot using a stick (long paintbrush handle or similar) in the plug-hole to verify you are in the correct slot. Careful...dont jam the `stick`!
Then put it in gear and rotate the rear wheel backwards to find the 38 BTDC slot. [It may be neccessary to rotate further and then go forwards to take up any backlash]
When the timing mark is central in the hole, the alternator timing mark should look look something like this:

And if you had a Sparx kit, it should look like this:

Then when you start the engine, using a strobe you can adjust the ignition stator (above) for fully advanced on the alternator at high revs...whatever is recommended for your kit.
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Old 05-12-2009, 12:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Caulky,
Many thanks my friend for you "five eggs". With the photos makes perfect sense to my dense head.
I have a 69 TR6 I have been working on for some time. Obviously the cases have been split because I do NOT have the access hole behind the barrels. Then trying to figure the 38 degrees has been troublesome. I have a wheel and such, but you made it pretty clear!

Bryan
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:16 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks, its amazing how two simple pictures tell more then any number of written references.
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