Rear brake light switch stuck on - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Rear brake light switch stuck on

As the title says, I noticed that the brake light was stuck on last night while riding home. I established that it was the rear switch.

Thinking the brakes might be binding, I pulled the rear caliper, checked the pads and rotor, cleaned the pistons, and checked the functioning. No problems with the brake.

This makes me think that the switch is defective. There's no adjustment in it, and the multimeter verifies that it's permanently on.

As a temporary fix, I disconnected it because it's a safety hazard.

Does anyone have any ideas to fix this before I order a replacement switch?

Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, no snorkel, inlet enlarged, 118/40/NBZT "Thruxton" needles/1 shim/3 turns, Ikon 7610s, Ricor Intiminators, Michelin Pilot Activs, D9 gauge panel, tachometer.
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 01:46 PM
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It's a pressure switch with no adjustment, and apparently a pretty crappy pressure switch at that. As far as I know, a new switch is the only remedy. Mine is going the opposite direction... it doesn't come on until the rear wheel is practically locked-up. I think the old style rear brake switch on a spring with adjustment nuts was a simpler but more effective design.

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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, I was hoping for an adjustment, figured it might be a bit tight.

I saw your post with the opposite problem when I searched.

Unless there's a fix--not likely--I'll take this as an opportunity to change the brake line and fluid, and it's off to the mechanic if I can't bleed it properly.

Another quick weekend chore becomes a project.

At least it's the back brake.

Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, no snorkel, inlet enlarged, 118/40/NBZT "Thruxton" needles/1 shim/3 turns, Ikon 7610s, Ricor Intiminators, Michelin Pilot Activs, D9 gauge panel, tachometer.

Last edited by Baltobonneville; 05-26-2008 at 02:06 PM.
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 02:18 PM
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BL Switch

Doesnt the ft BL switck (elec) work the brake light as well?? If so - just make sure you pull the ft lever & all is well?? Bud had the opposite problem. His light wouldnt go on! O well?

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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 02:22 PM
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I'd spray the thing with WD40. It has to be actuated in some way. Spray the hell out of it and see if it will unstick.
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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Captain Don, yes I can still ride and the front switch will take care of the light.

Kirkus, I don't see how spraying will resolve it. It's an enclosed, sealed unit, part of the hydraulic circuit. But I'll have another look to see if that is feasible.

Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, no snorkel, inlet enlarged, 118/40/NBZT "Thruxton" needles/1 shim/3 turns, Ikon 7610s, Ricor Intiminators, Michelin Pilot Activs, D9 gauge panel, tachometer.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 03:33 PM
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Something to check

Check the assembly on end of the of the rod that runs from the rear of the rear brake pedal up into the rear brake cylinder. If the nut has worked its way down, then the pressure could be constant enough to make the contact stay on.

Turn the lights on and work the break pedal up and down with your hand to see if it goes off. If it does not, take the break pedal off and see if an adjustment to rod assembly makes the break light go off.

I think spraying with WD40 may cause some long term problems with the seals on the rear brake cylinder.

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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 04:15 PM
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You sure there's no adjustment? The one on the Scrambler is adjustable and it would seem weird to use two different brake switches on essentially the same bike. On the Scrambler the switch body is threaded and mounts in what looks like a big plastic nut. You can turn the nut and it will adjust the position of the switch. I had to adjust mine because you had to really jam on the rear brake pedal to make the light come on.

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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Makes me wonder why the Scrambler has a mechanical switch and the Bonnie has a hydraulic switch?

There's definitely no adjustment of the switch, it either works or it doesn't, as Road Dog found out. His was stuck off. There's a small amount of adjustment of the actuating rod to the master cylinder, and I might play with that as suggested by Flyingscott, but I doubt that will have any effect on the switch, as the brake works properly.

I have to agree that it must be a cheap switch. I'm sure that cars have the same type of hydraulic switch for the brake lights, and they rarely if ever have to be replaced.

Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, no snorkel, inlet enlarged, 118/40/NBZT "Thruxton" needles/1 shim/3 turns, Ikon 7610s, Ricor Intiminators, Michelin Pilot Activs, D9 gauge panel, tachometer.
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-26-2008, 09:22 PM
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Thumbs up Rr Brake Light switch

If it turns out to be a biggy- just use the ft brake to signal a stop? I will flick it a few times when stopping to catch the attention of who is behind me, w/o using the rear brake! Nice to have the rear one as well- but some of these inconvient repairs can get expensive!!
I find the ft lever flicking will send a clear message to the vehicle behind you that you are stopping!! Much better bikes than their bretheren, but not w/o their faults!! I always "pre-flight " the old girl before take- off!! SAfe riding & a happy landing!!!

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