Key Relocation Kit - Page 10 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #91 of 99 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 04:35 PM
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But then you would have to take your gloves off!

For anyone who wants to see the Keyless demo, I posted up in the S3 forum.
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...-ignition.html
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post #92 of 99 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 04:01 PM
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I've now made a completely hands-free system - http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...part-deux.html

Now, whenever you approach the bike, it is enabled for ignition (set by the clutch switch).
Works within about 5' range (you can adjust the range by playing with antenna lengths)
Just keep remote in pocket and it disarms as you approach and re-arms when you walk away from the bike.

It's same interface for most Triumphs - the key-switch connectors are common throughout most of range, as is the Triumph/Datatool alarm connector.
The only invasive connection required is to the clutch switch (or side-stand switch, whatever your preference)
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post #93 of 99 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thruxton09 View Post
AAArgh Just had a look at my 09 thruxton, like oldefart says doesnt work on the later models. Guess I'll stick with the original key location for a while.
I just want to add that recently experienced this myself after removing the headlight bracket on my 08 Thruxton. The tank is just a little too much in the way... I just ordered the Joker Machine Relo bracket from BC.

S
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post #94 of 99 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivar View Post
My main grief was that I wanted to be able to reach the key while still having the clutch engaged.
Mine too Ivar.

I did the headlight bracket flip and 10 minutes later - all done.. Easy mod and I am well pleased.

I looked at D9's ignition relocation to the stem but it was just not in my budget. Seth was very helpful and fast with the information I must add.

Thanks for the update DeCosse. I am always impressed at your posts

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post #95 of 99 (permalink) Old 10-26-2012, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DEcosse View Post
How about 'keyless'?

RFID is pretty easy install!

Be happy to provide 'how to' if anyone interested
Pretty low cost - RFID Tag Reader and a couple of relays.
Under $25 total
I was looking at doing that but kits sell for $300! Can you post a how to? I would love to do that. I saw one that had a glass tube that could be sewn into the glove. How cool is that?
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post #96 of 99 (permalink) Old 10-26-2012, 07:51 PM
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I saw these after reading on here............

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNI-RFID-P...item2a1d8c3b30


http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/mm5/...egory_Code=KEY

As an electronics idiot it's more expensive, but I might be able to install it and it would work afterwards.

Rob

Last edited by R0B; 10-26-2012 at 07:58 PM.
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post #97 of 99 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fernandos1 View Post
...Can you post a how to? I would love to do that. I saw one that had a glass tube that could be sewn into the glove. How cool is that?
There are different kind of TAGs available, including the small glass ampoule that can be put in a glove - or for the brave, implanted in your skin! (not for me!!!!)
All are programmable into the low-cost EBay RFID receiver that is linked in my post above.
I liked the watch-band style personally -
http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store...tch-Style.aspx
or
http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?product_id=3905_0
or the ampoule - http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store...poule-Tag.aspx

you can also even get real watches from EBay in Germany

The circuit posted in post # 87 is essentially the 'how to':
All you need is the RFID kit, three relays and a couple of diodes from RadioShack

But in fact if eliminating the key completely you can get it down to 2 relays since you no longer have a key-position parking light.
That revision is linked below.

You need to consider placement of the RFID controller and antenna - the antenna will read through plastic, not through metal!
And tag needs to be within about 2" so think about placement and test before you decide on final location.

The power relays should fit inside the headlight shell and is ideal location to connect onto the original main harness connector;
you can also pick up the Kill & clutch signals inside here also.

The easiest thing is to actually use your key-switch harness and connector if you don't mind cannibalizing it;

If you refer to the diagram above, using the wire colours on the key-switch harness: (EFI switch in parentheses)
1) Delete the third relay
2) For first relay connect Red/Yellow (or White) to 30 and Green (or Brown) to 87
3) For second relay, connect Red/White (or White/Green) to 30 and Orange (or White/Black) to 87
4) Connect the Brown (Red) & Gray (Blue) together.

Then tap onto the Green/Brown wire from the Main Harness side of right bar switch - PosiTap connector is ideal - and feed this via the diode to 86 of Relay 1. This is the output from Kill Switch and is used to set & drop the relay latch.
Also tap onto the Black/Pink (Black/Orange) wire of the Main Harness side of Left Bar Switch Connector - this is clutch switch and used to power the ground side of the RFID module.
(If not EFI, note that side-stand will also required to be in raised position to enable power)

The RFID power and output are connected as shown - best to use a diode to isolate that signal also.

If using diode (or resistor) suppressed relays, the diodes across each relay coil may be eliminated - otherwise is good practice to add these.

To operate, you pull clutch lever to power up the RFID (note that on carb bikes, the side-stand will also have to be raised first);
then swipe the tag;
If the Kill switch is set to Run, the ignition will latch on.
When Kill is set to Kill, it will drop the latch. (and require a subsequent swipe of tag to re-enable)

This is what it looks like with above revisions:

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post #98 of 99 (permalink) Old 11-30-2012, 08:54 PM
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Thumbs up Sorry for rezzing but this was awesome

Quote:
Originally Posted by sweatmachine View Post
check out thrux351's 'free' key location mod, the holes are already on the frame (go look!) and all you need is 2x self-tapping sheetmetal screws and 2x 1/4" spacers to go behind the ignition to allow for the wires. I plan on doing this to mine:

Sorry for bringing this back, but I found those holes and I prefer the ignition here than on the ears! Got all the stuff from OSH for around $5 more or less.
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post #99 of 99 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 10:26 PM
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The problem I personally have with that ^^^ mod is that it takes seconds to remove the switch and hot-wire it.
But no worse than someone jamming a screwdriver in it I suppose if they really want it.
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