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Wideband tuning w/ Arrow 2-1 exhaust

978 views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  Callumity 
#1 ·
Hi all,

I recently installed an Arrow 2-1 on my '05 Thruxton, and I got to thinking that it might be nice to hook my handy AEM wideband tuner up to the existing plugged bungs on the Arrow 2-1 to get an idea of how I did with my jetting and/or give some feedback to move forward. The catch? The wideband sensor is an M18x1.5 thread while the Arrow bungs (and Triumph O2's which my bike doesn't have) are M12x1.25. I tried the Innovate adapter, but it's just about impossible to actually get the thing in place with where the pipes and bungs sit.

After an exhaustive search, it looks like there is no straight M12 to M18 adapter available anywhere. I've considered buying an M12 hose barb and sealing it (or welding it) into an M18 bung to fit the WB sensor, but this will pull the sensor out of the direct stream also. I'd rather not weld another bung on, and again I'd rather not drill out the existing bungs...has anyone tried anything like this? The other thought I had was to maybe put down some temporary silicone or a gasket of some sort and temporarily press the O2 sensor in place with some sort of clamp or safety wire situation.

Or I can just give up and wait on my colortune thread adapter to show up and go that route. Any thoughts?
 
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#2 ·
I'd wait.

Also you have to match up the alloys between the threads. I'm not sure what you're using but it should either be titanium or stainless steel. Mixing alloys will lead to issues. Those colortunes seem to be for spark plugs, not exhaust but I'm on my phone and can be mistaken.

As for being out of the stream, you can always confirm your instrumentation on a dyno run. I kind of jutted out a bit and my dyno run showed I was within 0.1+/-. I can't really tell for sure but I know I didn't quite break the plane of the pipes. Essentially the farther out you go, it will provide a somewhat fixed bias. This can become practically exponential so go as close as you can.

As you are implying a non-standard method of adapting the o2 sensor, you mileage may vary. You may get there and find out you'll never be close enough and it will cost money to figure this out. I suppose you're not racing so +/- 0.2 Afr won't matter.

The guaranteed method is rewelding.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 
#3 ·
Everything's stainless, so shouldn't be too much trouble there. I tried feeding the sensor up the muffler, but the A/F just keeps getting richer as I slide along and who knows if it's changing up to there. On top of that, it's a combination of both cylinders through the 2 into 1.

The colortune is a nifty little glass-backed spark plug that allows you to see the combustion in the cylinder. You can judge the A/F condition by the color of the flame. Here's a little vid from a '75 Honda CL360 I was working on:

https://goo.gl/photos/bepFbZJGJD89zXab7

It's a nice little tool because you can see the effect of small adjustments on the carb in real time on a color scale from white at very lean, through blue around stoichiometric ratio (14.7) and orange/yellow when rich.
 
#4 ·
Everything's stainless, so shouldn't be too much trouble there. I tried feeding the sensor up the muffler, but the A/F just keeps getting richer as I slide along and who knows if it's changing up to there. On top of that, it's a combination of both cylinders through the 2 into 1.

The colortune is a nifty little glass-backed spark plug that allows you to see the combustion in the cylinder. You can judge the A/F condition by the color of the flame. Here's a little vid from a '75 Honda CL360 I was working on:

https://goo.gl/photos/bepFbZJGJD89zXab7

It's a nice little tool because you can see the effect of small adjustments on the carb in real time on a color scale from white at very lean, through blue around stoichiometric ratio (14.7) and orange/yellow when rich.
That's pretty cool. I'll have to read up on it some more.

I suppose if you could put a load on the tire with that, why would you need an Afr guage? [emoji6]
 
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