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Scrambler front fork inner spacer tubes(lowering a scrambler)

8K views 35 replies 14 participants last post by  beemerrich 
#1 ·
Can anyone tell me the stock length for the spacer tubes inside the front forks of the scrambler?..i read 230mil somwhere i think...i have just bought a nice pair of tech SE rear shocks(im lowering the bike for my tiny legs) and some tube to make new front spacers..but i am trying to avoid taking the old spacers out just yet ..so if i can find out the length for the stock ones i can cut two the right length from the tube i bought to match my new rear shocks.
Cheers
 
#4 ·
If you shorten the spacer, you are reducing the pressure on the spring. The bike will sink lower under your weight - that's true enough - but you may also have a very soft ride. You'll get a lot of nose dive. If you are heavy, it might be pretty dangerous. If you don't weigh much, it's not too noticeable and you should probably shorten the tube to get the preload right anyway. In order to actually lower the bike, you need to shorten the spacer enough to take most of the preload off the spring. I can't believe this guy is making videos.
 
#6 ·
Pokeyjoe is giving you good advice. If you shorten the spacer other than for setting preload for a light weight rider you will be losing effective wheel travel also. Raise the fork tubes in the tree a bit, remove the fork springs and collapse the forks to see how far you can raise the tubes in the tree before the fender contacts the RR or bottom tree. That will be your stopping place. This is easy and free.
 
#7 ·
Yeah what u say makes sense i did think about how it would take most of the per load off the springs.As the scrambler has no adjuster on the fork cap I got these http://shop.tecbikeparts.com/products/preload-adjusters and thought once the mods were done front and back i could use these to fine tune any softness/dive on the front forks..dont know if it will work....ahh well we will see ..if it turns out really badly i will still have the original rear shocks and front spacer tubes to put it all back to stock ..oh and a pair of SE rear shocks to sell:O)
 
#9 · (Edited)
I installed a lowering kit which adds 1 inch to the stock preload spring and changes the main springs. Essentially, the spacer should be long enough so it sits flush with the top edge of the fork tube when you are ready to put the fork caps back on. I have a T100 and wanted it 1" lower all around. I bought some SE length rear shocks and a lowering kit for the front. I thought about sliding the fork tubes up the triple tree, but I decided against that look.
No issues with the bike after 100 miles or so.

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#11 ·
They speak the truth, listen to them. Slide your forks up through the triples to lower the front, set your sag properly with preload using spacers, then use your adjustable caps to fine tune. If its possible, lower the front the same as the rear. That will keep stock geometry.
 
#14 ·
I don't know the length of the spacers but I do know that there is zero pre load on the frontend of the Scrambler without the weight of the bike compressing the forks. There will be a small amount of pre load when you fit the TEC adjustable caps as they are slightly deeper than the stock caps.
 
#16 · (Edited)
That probably is a result the spring rates being low. Preload is sometimes used to compensate for soft springs, but if you really want your suspension
to work you start with spring rates appropriate for your weight and the type of riding you do. (And dampening set up as needed for the spring
rates you've chosen.) Preload is used to set sag.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Depends on where you are placing the spacer. Inserting a spacer beneath the damper rod (i.e. between the lower leg bottom and bottom of the damper rod) raises the fork height; whereas placing the spacer between the top out spring and the bottom of the stanchion or adding an additional top out spring would decrease the fork height.
 
#21 ·
I've just been out to the garage to drag some spare parts out. The triumph 'top out' spring measures 1", so to drop the forks 1" the 'proper' way would be to add another 1" spring ( or replace it with a 2" spring). Then replace the standard fork spring with a progressive spring made 1" shorter than standard?. I can't find a UK supplier of a lowering kit so I'm having to work it out myself :-(.
 

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#22 ·
That's exactly what the Progressive Suspension kit does. I asked if I could use the stock main springs because they are linear, and they couldn't commit to this as their main spring is "rated" for the drop. I can tell you their main spring was much longer and I used a piece of plastic pipe about 2" long as a spacer because I also have the adjustable preload caps (which I've never touched after initial setup)

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#25 ·
Ok. I was wondering if the spring became fully compressed before the fork tube bottomed out. Lowering via spacer would have me worried about hitting the stop harder on a big bump. I've also not seen to much regarding static sag recommendations, is there a rule of thumb (25%?).
 
#26 ·
Here is how I understand lowering your bike works: Your main spring is C-this constitutes the bulk of the weight bearing (with the oil being the dampener)
Rebound spring is B-If you make this spring longer, you limit the amount of 'rebound' travel and do not allow your forks to expand, which makes them shorter in length.
This method maintains the rake and trail of the bike because the fork travels in it's intended path (you lose some travel)
If you move the forks up the triple clamps, you change the geometry because you now changed the wheel axle location in relation to the head tube.
 

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#27 ·
Rebound spring is B-If you make this spring longer, you limit the amount of 'rebound' travel and do not allow your forks to expand, which makes them shorter in length.
This method maintains the rake and trail of the bike because the fork travels in it's intended path (you lose some travel)
If you move the forks up the triple clamps, you change the geometry because you now changed the wheel axle location in relation to the head tube.
The OP wants to lower the bike front and rear. He already has shorter rear shocks so raising the tubes in the tree would help maintain near original geometry without sacrificing fork travel. Why would anyone want to reduce travel on a Scrambler that if taken off road needs all the travel it has and more.
 
#32 · (Edited)
OK Folks i decided not to worry about the technical whys and wherefores, this is what i did and the bikes so much better it amazed me, the handlings sharper i can reach the floor.. the bike is so much more fun to ride ..i can throw it about like my old z250 now:O)..all i did was fit a pair of tech bikeparts SE remote reservoir gas shocks on the back. When fitted i measured them eye to eye.. they where 20mil shorter than the crappy stock shocks the bike came with. Then i just took the spacers out of the front forks cut 20mil off of them and put them back useing my new pre load adjustable caps instead of the normal non adjustable scrambler ones... after a couple of rides and messing about with the pre load front and back i was very happy The shocks cost £200 and the adjustable pre load caps were £50..i now have a bike i love instead of one i wasnt quite sure about.
CHEERS FOR ALL THE INPUT!!!
 
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