Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

Any quick thoughts on these Exhausts?

4K views 28 replies 9 participants last post by  PieMan 
#1 ·
Hi,

I've got a 2016 Bonnie Newchurch (SE) and am looking for a lighter, more free flowing exhaust system. I'm not really looking to cut corners for the sake of budget, but on face value these seem a reasonable alternative to the Arrow system.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dunstall-...196629?hash=item51e835e315:g:dPwAAOSw~OdVVe8U

But I wondered if anyone had some quick advice/wisdom on whether I should or should not consider them?

ksb
 
#2 ·
Hi,But I wondered if anyone had some quick advice/wisdom on whether I should or should not consider them?
I can't comment on that system, BUT, I put on a TEC 2 into 1 and really like it. It makes the bike sound like a high reving single, and it's not too aggressive with the baffle out. The shorty muffler of the Dunstall might be louder? Another benefit is the system weight is about 1/2 of stock.
As with any deviation from stock there are a few bugs to work out, but I'm not going back to 2 mufflers.

Charles
 
#3 ·
Newchurch SE here too ksb, hope you keep us posted whatever you do. Dunstall looks interesting, I was thinking of the TEC 2->1 endoscopy referred too.

could do with a fully fitted pic of the Dunstall, and not clear how it fits O2 sensors? I know it says blanking plugs included, you'd want the sensors reinstalled, can maybe see thread for one??
 
#5 ·
I changed the TORS that came on my bonnie to the Dunstall equivelant . Pretty good quality, good sound, but I had to put baffles in as they were quite loud. Also had to use original exhaust hangers , but that wont be an issue for you. I think you will be pleased with them.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for all the replies.

I'm currently going through that 'do I dont I' process that I imagine I'm not alone in subjecting myself to. That is 'do I replaced a perfectly functional part with another perfectly functional part, and why?'

The reasons I have for doing it,

1) Sound, I think Triumph have tried hard to make the stock exhausts sound ok, but there is a certain 'sewing machine' aspect to them. I'm not after loud so much as I want it to sound like a motorcycle.

2) The engine feels somewhat strangled and I figure free up the way in (airbox) and the way out (pipes) and it'll allow the engine to live a bit more.

3) Weight. Whilst it's much cheaper for me to shrug off a few pounds, this does have the added benefit of lightening the load.

Fundamentally, my hesitation is, I really enjoy riding the bike as is, but that urge to tinker and improve is very strong, but...

Also there is the whole... will they fit properly?, after all they are cheap pipes off ebay.
 
#9 ·
We all do this should I should I not thing in our heads.

I'll try to help you a little here.

Couple things, #1 they are cheap, #2 you don't like them you can sell them easy as pie. #3 if they are too loud you can always buy those insert style baffles that go into the end of the header pipe to tame it down. I just did that because my Predators are way too loud for me, and now they are at a perfect level. I picked up those baffles through J&P cycles dirt cheap, they fit in with a friction fit into the end of the header pipes. Cou0le of us on here are using those baffles to tame exhaust down. They come in a couple different lengths. I used the two inchers. Freaking perfect sound level now.

I really like the look of that Dunstall system. Please do a follow up post after you throw those babies on.
 
#10 ·
You're quite right Sonic, however I'm going to buy them direct from distributor, so if they don't fit or ultimately I don't like the result, I can send them back, the reviews on their site are good (and reviews on some other products are not so kind, so I'll assume the company don't filter).

So here goes, I'll be sure to update with some pics when they're on.

Next challenge is rear shocks, but there are a bunch of posts on that so some reading to do :p
 
#11 ·
So here goes, I'll be sure to update with some pics when they're on.
Before you install them, you should consider installing a O2 bung in the muffler. That way, when you get tired of guessing on proper jetting, you can get an air fuel meter and be ready to plug it in.

It makes doing performance modifications Soooo much easier.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
I'm not sure what most of that means, sorry I'm a complete noob with mechanical stuff.

However the product description says...

"Exhaust system fits EFI and Carb Models and is supplied with everything needed for both. No significant mods are needed to fit, if running with baffles in, no rejetting/remapping is needed. If running wifh baffles out, the bike should be remapped using the Arrow Map."

I intend to run it with baffles in, until I sort the air box then my intention was to hand it over to an expert for the remapping.

But you have made me curious and temporarily halted me hitting 'buy now' ?
 
#13 · (Edited)
If it fits EFI, it must come with a bung and a block off bolt for a carb model with no bung needed. I was wondering what all that hardware about in the pictures. now I know. Just remove the bung from the stock pipe and screw it into the new one. Look up the cord and follow that to find the plug and disconnect so you don't screw up the wiring unscrewing it. Ask me how I know.
 
#16 · (Edited)
I've got the 2:1 Zard exhaust on my 2014 t-100, I'm really loving this system. The sound is a little on the quiet side but definitely louder than stock. With air box removal and power commander the Dyno proved out a full 68 hp at the wheel. When I purchased the 2:1 off e-bay they were 1400 bucks, you can get the same thing now for 1/2 that. Huge weight savings also.
 
#21 ·
Ok, so a quick update, bear in mind I previously said I was mechanically ungifted :p

I spend a few hours tonight fitting the pipes and learnt that I need a bunch more tool options, but managed to cope with the sockets/whatnot I have. Getting the stock pipes off was easy enough, and once I got the hang of which bolts to tighten first, putting the new ones on was also pretty easy.

What was a small nightmare was refitting the right side rearset and trying to reroute the lambda sensors (the air sensors), also without the stock exhaust mounted on the right side, my socket set was not deep enough to tighten the rear foot rest, tomorrow I'll take it off against and see if the thread is long enough or if I need a washer.

What I just couldn't manage to do was route those air sensors, even with removing the oil cooler, so I decided to not bother, and have invested in an ECU lead for the purpose of turning them off... which will be another adventure.

According to the new Exhaust manufacturer, so long as I keep the baffles in there is no need for a remap, but as I'm pondering removing the airbox I think the future holds a trip to a dyno and a professional to ensure the bike is happy.

Although it was too late to start the bike up (I live in a residential area), I can confirm this set of pipes fit perfectly and appear to be excellent quality.

For anyone arriving at this post fresh... My bike is a 2016 registered Bonneville Newchurch (which I think counts as a 2015 SE), and the exhausts are... http://britishbikebits.com/dunstall...st-system-triumph-new-bonneville#.V7zPPZMrIUE

I'll upload a video in the next few days, for anyone interested, personally I think they look superb!
 
#25 ·
What was a small nightmare was refitting the right side rearset and trying to reroute the lambda sensors (the air sensors), also without the stock exhaust mounted on the right side, my socket set was not deep enough to tighten the rear foot rest, tomorrow I'll take it off against and see if the thread is long enough or if I need a washer.
In the future YouTube is your friend. Any time I'm going to do a repair or upgrade on a vehicle or motorcycle I find that I can get tips and tricks from wiser people than I. I would have struggled with the right rearset as well had I not watched a video on what to do. Glad you seem to like your exhaust. I've been over the moon about my Tec 2-2 Sprints.
 
#24 ·
Very informative Pieman, and having read several of your posts around the forums I very much had it in mind to seek your opinion, from the descriptions it'd seem that complete removal would not really benefit me a great deal (as I don't spend a lot of time towards the red line), so either the stage 1 or maybe a simple replacement of the stock filter would help free up the engine a little?

I had my first ride post-exhaust replacement and my observations seem in line with many who have done the same...

a) low rev is 'stuttery'

b) deceleration is quite 'poppy'

I assume removing the SAI will cure the latter but will it smooth out the former? I'm running the pipes with the baffle in (and will probably continue to do so) and running the stock map.
 
#27 · (Edited)
I had my first ride post-exhaust replacement and my observations seem in line with many who have done the same...

a) low rev is 'stuttery'

b) deceleration is quite 'poppy'

I assume removing the SAI will cure the latter but will it smooth out the former? I'm running the pipes with the baffle in (and will probably continue to do so) and running the stock map.
Removal of the SAI will likely reduce/remove the deceleration popping depending on how lean the mixture is on deceleration, but it won't relieve the lean stuttering at low revs. Removal of the exhaust baffle will make your bike run even leaner and make your running problems worse.
 
#26 ·
You're quite right mate, and I had viewed a few videos but forgot a few details from those far wiser than I. Thankfully the deeper sockets I bought from amazon have done the trick today and the footrest is securely in place.

I think, no, I know my enthusiasm significantly exceeds my mechanical ability, but I am learning slowly :)
 
#28 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply.

I have little intention of removing the baffle, the new 2:1 sounds like a motorcycle rather than a hairdryer, which suits me fine.

I did the 'marble' trick with the SAI and it has completely removed the popping and low rev riding is signifanctly smoother, however the bike still feels like it is being dragged backwards, if you get my drift. It is responsive to the throttle and runs fine, but my 'ass feeling' is one of a choked bike.

I am concerned that despite the exhaust manufacturer's claim that one can retain the stock map so long as the baffles are kept, that the bike is in fact not optimised... What would you [pieman] suggest? And I am happy to become a customer of yours.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top