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Oil leak - looking for advice on repair

2K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  Steve Ford 
#1 ·
Howdy all

My '06 has a progressively worsening oil leak coming from the top of the chrome breather tube on the front of the motor. There is no oil coming from just above, from the cam cover gasket. The top of the tube has a thin film of oily dirt. By the bottom of the tube, there is a film of oil over the front of both jugs and a shallow pool on the case.

From what I can discern, the fix will require a complete tear down, even a removal of the jugs to replace the base gasket which will most definitely begin leaking once the motor is apart.

I just got a price of $238 (gasp) from the dealer for the complete kit. But that includes a valve cover kit, which I recently replaced. Is there another place someone can recommend to get a more reasonable price? And would there be a problem with just replacing the few necessary gasket?

Hoping someone here who's done this can give me some insight into saving some time/money. I'm getting ready to put her up for sale, but don't want to have to get shafted because of the bike not being 100%.

Thanks in advance.
 
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#2 ·
You can "get away" with simply replacing the Head and Jugg Gaskets ...................... if there are no other "conditions".

Check Cometic Gasket ................ EXCELLENT!
They offer High Quality MLS Gaskets, just like the factory gaskets.
I believe they supply as Original Equipment for a few company's.
I have used their Triumph Twin Gaskets on 2 different occasions .............. Excellent Quality, good people.

These should be the gaskets that you need .............. Stock Bore, versus B.B. ......... but they have those as well.

http://www.shopengineparts.com/prod...h&model=Bonneville,+T100+-+(02-14)&type=model

http://www.shopengineparts.com/prod...h&model=Bonneville,+T100+-+(02-14)&type=model


How many miles on your bike?

I recommend leaving the pistons "IN" the Jugg when removing it.
Not hard to do with a little diligence.
This will eliminate any chance of reorienting the rings form their present "fit". Possibly causing Oil Consumption problems and Blow-By.

A simple "Re-Seal".

Stuff the "Case Holes" with rags when you get the Jugg high enough to remove the Wrist Pin Clips (outers, leaving the Inners in place).
Also stuff the timing chain "Hole" (leading to the lower cases) with rag/rags while working also.
WHEN you drop something, it will prevent it from traveling DOWN INTO THE CASE.

Valve seals will still have the same wear/hardening, as will the pistons/rings ....................... but it will not be leaking oil.

DO NOT use 3M Bristle Disc's or "Abrasive Cookies" to clean the gasket surfaces !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Stand a Straight edge Razor Blade on it's Sharp Edge ............... "Dragging" it across the gasket surfaces. This will ONLY clean the rubberized coating left in area's where is stuck from the old gaskets.
Again ............ DO NOT alter the "Surface Texture" !!!! Simply clean it in preparation for the new gaskets.

Use the gaskets "Dry" .............. on "Oil Free" gasket surfaces.
 
#4 ·
Ahhhh, yes ................. I did not mention the "O Rings" that Mike made mention of.

Number 14 in the linked parts list/diagram ............... http://www.triumphestore.com/a/Triu...Fittings---Bonneville-T100/100053428-3-2.html

DO NOT reuse them ............ replace. "Murphey" will intervene otherwise.

Also .......... with some kind of Solvent (Brake Clean, Carb Clean, Gasoline, etc) on a rag, clean the bores that the tube pushes into.
There will be dirt "caked" around the perimeter of the O-ring. You want to have a smooth clean bore for the new o-ring to enter/seal.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Thanks so much guys for the awesome info. I don't know why I didn't think of Hermys first. Well, I've never ordered from them, I guess that's why. But definitely not the first time I've heard of them.

Haha bscott I have no plans on reusing the O rings, since they are the reason I'm doing this... So just to be clear, really all I have to have are the O rings and head gasket? At the price Hermys gave, I wouldn't mind going ahead and purchasing the base gasket too ($20). The odd thing is that on the fiche, it's says 2006 EFI T100, which doesn't exist. Is that just to cover all their bases? I'm sure they know what they're talking about.

Hmm, if I can get away with around $100 invested, I can live with that.

And thanks for the tip on leaving the pistons in the cylinder (in case I happened to jar the cylinders loose). That's sage advice.
 
#6 ·
Those Schematics are somewhat generic. The "06 Fuel Injected listing is of no concern for the parts you are in need of.
The gaskets you are utilizing span the range of the line.

FWIW ......... I am running a "12 Fuel Injected head on my "01 Carbureted engine.

I also want you to be aware of something .....................
The "coating" on those gaskets is an "Elastomer Compound" (rubber).
The layers of material sandwiched together are "Steel".

"Rubber" materials "harden" when subjected to heat.
Compound that when subjecting to Heating AND Cooling cycles.
This further hinders "sealing effectiveness".
TIME and MILEAGE are not on your side with these types of gaskets (MLS .. Multi-Layered Steel)

"IF" the Cylinder Jugg "moves" IN THE SMALLEST AMOUNT .............. the "seal" will be broken. The chances of "resealing" are slim!
Use something "non-marring" (large flat screwdriver/prybar with tape on it, will do) between the Head "fin" and the Jugg "fin" ........... at the Head Gasket "seam".
"Lift UP" on the handle when applying pressure to loosen the Head.
This will apply "down pressure" on the Jugg, while applying "Up pressure" on the head .... simultaneously. Increasing your chances of not disturbing the Jugg Base Gasket.
Also, use minimal pressure, moving around the perimeter ............. and do so at the "corners", where the retaining Studs are.

"IF" you develop a leak, at the Jugg Gasket, when you are finished with your work .................. you will understand "why".
You will then need "another" Head Gasket, AND a Jugg Gasket ........... when you pull it apart THE SECOND TIME.

As for "myself" ......................... "I" could not get away with trying to "salvage" the old Jugg Gasket, it WOULD leak.
"Murphey" would intervene.
It is a $25 gasket, and a little extra time.

But, it has been done.

Just saying.:wink2:

Maybe YOUR "luck" is better than MINE.:grin2:
 
#7 ·
Great info! Thanks for taking the time. Yes, I agree, I'd rather do it right than twice. And even though I don't believe in luck, I subscribe to the insight of Jack Bruce: "If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all."

Thanks again. I'm calling Hermy's at lunch to sort this out.
 
#8 ·
Well, I called Hermy's this afternoon. Great guys btw. They said to make sure of where the leak is before I go into the motor (yep, I knew that :)) So I thought I'd post some pics just to get you guys' opinion on what I'm looking at:





The following view is from the case, looking up to the top of the tube. Note that the oil only begins at the front curve just above the top of the tube. This suggests to me that the top of the tube is leaking and the wind from riding is blowing it up to the front edge of that metal part above, since the oil obviously is not coming from above.



All the pics IMO seem to suggest the leak coming from the tube and the wind blowing the oil to the places it now lies.

Thoughts?
 
#10 ·
Because of the nature of "Seeping" Oil ......... it can be a challenge with "that much" oil to be 100% certain.
In a case that you show there ........ it is normally prudent to Clean all traces of oil, and then operate it just until signs are visible again.
This practice "shows" you the origin of the leak.

I do agree with you though ........... the Upper O-Ring on the Tube is most certainly leaking, as long as nothing above that point is "wet".
Oil will "creep" in any direction ....... including up.
Air Turbulence will only assist in "pushing" it up as well.

Obviously the oil will travel downward.
It will then "creep" along that Jugg Base Gasket, as it appears to be doing.
Although .......... it is not IMPOSSIBLE to have more than leak.

Either way ........ the Head needs to be removed to replace that Upper O-Ring .......... so, no need to go through that ...... just reseal the Tube, Head, and Jugg ......... and be done.
 
#11 ·
Just be 100% certain that it IS NOT coming down from the Cam Cover.
It is literally JUST above the highest point of "wetness" that is showing.

The "Mount Boss" appears that it MAY be "Wet" (with oil) rolling up over the top ........... on the right side of your pic.

A shame to go through that IF it is just the Cam Cover!:wink2:
 
#14 · (Edited)
Yep, that's exactly what Hermy's suggested to me before I tear into it. I'm headed to the garage here shortly to clean it up and do exactly that. Thanks!

This is a great opportunity to install a 904 kit. You're taking 80% of what's required apart anyway to fix your leak.:grin2:
Haha normally that would be a thought. But as I mentioned in my OP, I'm sending Jezebel down the road. I know, sounds crazy. But you might notice by my profile under my name that I have 2 first loves. Most of all, my new baby:



And tbh, I'm flat out sick of other drivers. Not necessarily the ones who are just clueless and don't see me. It's the growing number of drivers who just don't care, and look straight at me and pull out in front of me, or run me into oncoming traffic. I've always said I'd pick dirt any day over street. But with a trials bike, I've even left my KX250 2T sitting in the garage for consecutive riding days. This GasGas is the most fun I've ever had on two wheels. A 280 cc, 150 lb wheelie monster, and it's a billygoat on steep hills and rocks.

Plus, with a son and two more 2 strokes in the garage, something's gotta go.
 
#15 ·
Not much of a seat on that thing...
You're right about the drivers, I've had 3 close calls so far this season. How can they miss something as gargantuan as a Triumph 955 Tiger with a Staintune canister? One ran me nearly into the jersey barrier on the highway, one ran a stop sign and would have gone right over me and one just pulled out of a driveway without looking in either direction.
Good luck with the leak; at least trees don't drive but the rocks are still hard.
 
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