Hi guys, I know this is something that's been beaten to death in various fashion, but my question seems to be different than the other discussions that came up during search. I'm thinking of keeping the STOCK air filter, and using the breathe thing with a TTP tune. Looking at the data on their site, there doesn't appear to be that great a different between the OEM paper filter and the DNA, so I'm considering going with the oem. Has anyone done this, or is there some info I haven't found yet? My bike is a '12 Merica, and the dyno graphs on TTP are from 790 Bonnie, but the filters are the same year to year, so the flow should be the same right?
Thanks for helping, sorry if this causes a fracas!
Go for it. I'm convinced the OEM filter dose a better job of filtering air and I don't think think a performance difference could be measured, unless you had extensive breathing mods. In which case you would need pods anyway.
It's not too hard to get it right. Once cleaned, you need to lightly oil the edge of the pleats and allow at least an hour for the oil to be absorbed. Then check that the filter has a uniform light red colour, if there are any parts of the filter that aren't light red, just re-oil these sections.
If you do over-oil the filter your engine will run rich for a while, it's not a great problem as your engine will suck the excess off in the air flow and after around 20 miles of running your engine will work normally.
Does the DNA filter filter as well as the OEM though? The increased airflow must come from somewhere, and I'm concerned that it comes at the cost of letting in more particulate. In terms of long-tern reliability health of the engine, would a DNA be detrimental in any way? I know there have been tests conducted of K&N filters that showed they let in much more dirt than a stock filter. How is this any different for the DNA?
DaftSkunk, I did the stock filter with the breathe intake and short silencers with TTP tune three. 2013 speedmaster. I think it is working pretty well. I do pull the filter out once and awhile and use a judicious amount of air pressure to clean it. One question I've had, and maybe pieman can weigh in, is the chance of over oiling a DNA filter and it's effect on air flow. I know my own tendancies, and rather than risk under oiling a filter, I'll probably over oil it. How hard is it to get the oil just right?
Guys, I am currently running tune #4 in my Scrambler. I was running a bit rich with a Uni filter installed, installed a stock filter with the same results. Ordered a DNA filter from TTP this has cleared up the rich condition.
It's not too hard to get it right. Once cleaned, you need to lightly oil the edge of the pleats and allow at least an hour for the oil to be absorbed. Then check that the filter has a uniform light red colour, if there are any parts of the filter that aren't light red, just re-oil these sections.
If you do over-oil the filter your engine will run rich for a while, it's not a great problem as your engine will suck the excess off in the air flow and after around 20 miles of running your engine will work normally.
It's not too hard to get it right. Once cleaned, you need to lightly oil the edge of the pleats and allow at least an hour for the oil to be absorbed. Then check that the filter has a uniform light red colour, if there are any parts of the filter that aren't light red, just re-oil these sections.
I did exactly what you want to do, Breathe with stock air filter, no issues. I also have TTP#3, SAI/O2 sensors off, Predator exhaust. Runs great, strong and smooth.
What happens to the OEM paper filter if it gets wet, since there is no snorkel to protect it? Any chance it might disintegrate and get pieces sucked into the intake?
I can't imagine that being a thing. First, the paper element of the filter is fairly robust and not paper mache. B, water would be getting into the air intake and then kill the engine long before the element could shred. I think.
They do supply a diverter that is applied to the side cover.
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