Checking the valve clearence - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 03:49 AM Thread Starter
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How big a job is checking the valve clearence of my bonnie.

2001 790, A1 removed, K&N air filter, air box intake cover enlarged & restrictor removed, Stock 790 needles 1 shim, 130 mains, 42 pilots, NH Classic Toga Mufflers with modified baffles, Twin Power remap stage 1, 19T, NH Western bars, Dart flyscreen.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 04:46 AM
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G'day MotoLink...
...If you ain't phased by a bit of spanner work then it's a snack.... simply must get yourself a copy of the Haynes manual which spells it out in detail..

....shows you where you must position the very close attention to this cause there are a couple of positions that can fool you...start the motor in the wrong ones and you'll most likely bend the valves....

......there are the 3 variables that you must have correct
1. the line up marks on the cam drive cog and the cam cogs..dots and lines
2. the cam drive has the word top punched into it on the right side ( right as when sitting on the bike)...this of course has to be at the ......yep
3. and the cam lugs on the right ends have to be in the correct position...inclined towards one another at about half way between vertical and horizontal.....see the Haynes manual page 1.18 under Valve clearance check and adjustment, photo 24.6...

if these things are correct the piston should be at the top of its' stroke which is the final check...take the plugs out and as you turn the motor over to get the cams in the right position hold a pencil in the plug hole so you will be aware of the piston being at the top of it's stroke as it pushes the pencil up.. will of course need access to a micrometer..I got a good quality digital one from Gibboes for about $60 ..I think repco have got a similar one also..and feeler guages...a star type alen head ..the cam holders are held on by these and are a type of security nut..yep at repco...and a tension wrench to get these babies back in at the right torque....strip 'em and off comes the head to retap if it's one of them under the frame..

....and make sure you stick some rags down the shaft where the cam chain runs or you'll end up with Dazco's drama..i.e. dropping bits down into the guts of the crankcase..

...just take your time and it is quite satisfying to do..


ps... I found I did not need to drain the engine oil and so remove the alternator cover ..I just lightly flicked the starter button until I got the cams in the right positions...if you get the three things I mentioned in the right spots the line they mention on the alternator that you line up with the join in the crankcase will be in the right spot.. will also need the locking pins as described on page 2.15 of the trusty manual.. Section 8. Camshafts, shims and followers. paragraph 6...I made mine out of some mild steel bolts that I just ground down on the bench grinder ..Pic 8.6b...worked will all become crystal clear as you read this section......
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 07:10 AM
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all he wanted to do was check the clearance, ya know.
after putting the cams in the right position, just check clearance with a feeler guage.
if an adjustment is needed, it gets a little more complicated

I never wanted to lead, and I never wanted to follow.
I just wanted to ride
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 08:10 AM
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Here's a procedure I've used for years to move the cams into the correct position. It eliminates having to remove the alternator cover to manually turn the engine over.

(a) Put the bike on the center stand, or somehow lift the back wheel clear of the ground.
(b) Put the bike in top (5th) gear.
(c) Bump the rear wheel in the direction of travel by hand while watching the cams move into the correct position for checking them. This is easier if you are changing spark plugs at the same time and have them removed prior to bumping the engine.
(d) Once in the correct position, check the clearances with feeler guages.

Checking clearances is a simple procedure that shouldn't take more than 30 minutes if you're comfortable removing the fuel tank and cam cover. Checking clearances is covered in both the Triumph Service Manual and the Haynes Manual.


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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 09:16 AM
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also, has not been mentioned have to do it when the engine is cold, and by that I mean it hasn't been fired in at least 24 hours.

"If you will it Dude, it is no dream"

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 10:46 AM
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I'd also recommend getting one of those cheap impact drivers to get those torx screws of of your cam caps or you'll be twisting off a few torx driver bits trying to unscrew them! :wink:
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 03:27 PM
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ohiorider... that's a ***** good trick...never ceases to amaze me how there is usually an easier way of doing something mechanical..
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 03:29 PM
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....and that my last post got censored...???!!!
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 03:57 PM
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Yeah, the software is pretty persnickety..... for example if you want to call something that goes to the junkyard s.c.r.a.p. and type it in, you get..........s****. I think.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 10:54 PM
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Ask us what time it is and we will probably tell you how to build a watch. :-D


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