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post #11 of 185 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 05:35 PM
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nice update. careful with the lathe info. you'd be surprised how many "friends" you'll find you have when the word gets out you can use it to make parts.

19t, BC Sleepers, 42 pilots, Thrux needles & springs, 132 mains, K&N, Dart screen, air box bafflectomy, Barnett greens, TEC shocks
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post #12 of 185 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Already been there. A buddy of mine had me part off some
spacers for him the other day.

Last edited by Siskiyou; 06-18-2013 at 08:38 PM.
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post #13 of 185 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 10:02 PM
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Thanks for the update! Can't wait to see how this progresses. Gonna be an awful lot of fun!
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post #14 of 185 (permalink) Old 06-23-2013, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Measuring For Axle Spacers

I thought I'd write up the process of measuring up the front end to
determine spacer sizes for the new triple clamps and front axle. I
hope this will be useful for those of you thinking about fork or wheel

The Harris triple clamps are wider than the stock CBR parts my forks
came from, so new spacers for the axle and brake calipers need to
be made. I have stock Honda parts available for comparison, but I
wanted to go through the math to make sure everything comes out
right and the wheel is centered in the forks. I knew that the nominal
difference was 11 mm, so Harris supplied a new axle 11 mm longer
than stock. I'll start by taking measurements to determine what
the real difference is. (All measurements are rounded off to whole

First the fork tubes were fitted to the CBR triple clamps and some
measurements taken between the bottom of the sliders and between
the brake caliper mounting lugs. The same measurements were
then taken with the forks mounted in the Harris triple clamps. The
difference was 10mm. So my axle spacers should be 5 mm longer
on each side of the wheel. I'll also need to fabricate spacers to locate each caliper 5 mm inwards.

The distance between the sliders came in at 162 mm. Measuring
through the wheel across the bearings gave me a dimension of 114
mm, leaving a difference of 48mm. This is the "space" that needs
to be taken up by spacers and at first glance it might seem that a
couple of 24 mm spacers would do the job. But they won't.

In the pic below it can be seen that the axle has a "step" in it. The
nominal (smaller) diameter is 20 mm and that's the size of the inner
bearing races. The larger diameter is 25 mm. The bottoms of the
sliders are bored to accept the two different diameters. When the
wheel and spacers are fitted to the forks and the bolt at the end is
tightened, the axle is drawn to the left (left in the photo) until the
shoulder on the axle tube pulls the parts up against the left slider.
So the spacer on that side (left in the photo) is what locates the
wheel in the forks: the other spacer just takes up the "slack". Pinch
bolts secure both ends. Notice that this design avoids "pinching"
of the fork tubes when tightened and reduces binding in the

Also, the larger diameter has to protrude a little from the right
slider in order to bear against the adjacent spacer, so we'll allocate
1 mm to that. That suggests that the difference between the two
spacers should be 1 mm and that a 24 mm spacer and a 23 mm
spacer will work. They won't either.

The reason is that Honda threw a curve ball: The difference in length
between the stock Honda spacers was 7 mm. Why the difference?
The reason is the wheel itself. The bearings are offset to one side
and aren't centered in the wheel. I measured off the brake discs
(since I know they are centered) and found a 6 mm difference.
While I don't know for certain why Honda designed the wheel this
way, I suspect that it goes back to F2 which had a speedo drive on
one side. Honda may have carried the design over and adjusted the
spacers to suit. Cheaper than a new wheel.

So in the end I wind up with a 27 mm spacer on one side and a 20
mm spacer on the other. Added to my 1 mm shoulder allowance
that gives me the 48 mm I need and accounts for the bearing offset
in the wheel. And it just happens to be 5 mm wider than the stock
spacers which measure 15 and 22 mm.

Now all that's needed is to make them!

Last edited by Siskiyou; 06-24-2013 at 11:24 AM.
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post #15 of 185 (permalink) Old 06-23-2013, 10:22 AM
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really nice work there ,its a credit to you
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post #16 of 185 (permalink) Old 06-23-2013, 11:19 AM
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Super job that 10/10.

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post #17 of 185 (permalink) Old 08-24-2013, 04:17 PM
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Just wondering what happened to this build?


For VT - so many bikes, so little time.
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post #18 of 185 (permalink) Old 08-24-2013, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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I know it's been a while since I've posted: I haven't worked on it much recently since
home stuff has gotten in the way. I'll post when I've got more to say.
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post #19 of 185 (permalink) Old 08-24-2013, 06:58 PM
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Ever think of one of the big bore kits, a friend here builds a Bonnie engines to 100+ bhp at the rear wheel, far too expensive for me but it looks like you are going all out.
Send updates!!!
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post #20 of 185 (permalink) Old 09-01-2013, 01:47 AM Thread Starter
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The budget isn't going to allow for an all-out engine: I'm thinking along the lines of an
865 HP kit with forged pistons and cams, a set of FCR's, re-map, lightened flywheel and
custom exhaust. The bike should be pretty light, so this should be enough power to
make the bike interesting. More displacement is great for torque, but the the cost goes up
fast with those big bore engines. I'm planning on putting in a call to TPUSA when I get
a little closer to doing engine work.

Front axle spacers have been made so the front wheel is on the bike. It was at that
point that I discovered that my ebay front discs were warped: no surprise really and
I was planning on replacing them anyway so I ordered a set of EBC V-rotors. They
showed up a week or so ago and when I tried to mount them up, they didn't fit. I got
the right part number for my wheels, so I'm currently playing tag via email with a tech
guy at EBC to try and sort it out.

While I'm waiting for the correct front rotors to show up (so I can make brake caliper spacers)
I'll start work on spacers for the rear wheel. I'm planning on building a jig to align the
wheels so that I can work out spacer lengths and then work on chain alignment. I also
need to fabricate a steering stop, but need a headlight first to ensure that everything
will fit. The Triumph headlight I have is too long (front to back) and interferes with
a couple of lugs welded to the steering head. I'm looking at Ducati Monster headlight
shells since they're more compact. The steering stop bracket will also support what-
gauges I decide to use; still thinking about that one. At first I thought about an electronic package like Trail Tech, but recently I've been thinking about a round more
old school looking speedo/tach combination. There are some GPS speedo's out there
that look interesting. Anyone out there know about something good along those lines?

Last edited by Siskiyou; 09-01-2013 at 01:57 AM.
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