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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Which Shorai Battery

Which shorai battery do i need to order for an '05 thruxton. Different websites give up different model numbers for the battery. Or does it not matter?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 02:16 AM
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I went for the 18ah one although they say both will work. You do know they don't perform well in low temps, isn't a worry for me (mild winters) but if you ride in cooler weather it could be a problem.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by plodalong View Post
I went for the 18ah one although they say both will work. You do know they don't perform well in low temps, isn't a worry for me (mild winters) but if you ride in cooler weather it could be a problem.
Yup, run the LFX18A1-BS12. It is only .43lb heavier (still only 2.31lvs!) than the standard 14ah model (you can't even tell) and it has 60 more cranking amps plus a longer reserve. Helps with those "OH **** I LEFT THE F*$ING xxxxx ON!" moments and if you ever mod and raise compression etc....

I haven't had an issue yet with cold starting on my 944cc 11:1 comp Thrux or my 998cc 11.4:1 comp Monster S4RS. At least down to 40 degrees. And if you simply turn on the ignition and draw power from the battery for a minute then shut the key off, this "warms" the battery internally and it will boost its own voltage and crank better the next time.

I tried it for kicks and giggles on a low charged one that my buddy bought used for his Bonnie (14AH) when it cranked over slowly. Worked!

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 03:12 PM
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Go with the biggest capacity you can afford - 18 ideally.

Quote:
Originally Posted by plodalong
You do know they don't perform well in low temps, isn't a worry for me (mild winters) but if you ride in cooler weather it could be a problem.
Just to clarify further - the battery will give indication similar to a lead/acid battery in state of discharge - it will appear to be unable to turn over the engine, or at least very slowly. However the significant difference is that the LiFePO4 battery is NOT really discharged - just that the ions are quite immobile at low temp.
The work-around is to pre-heat the battery - you can self-heat it very simply by just turning on the headlight for 30s to a minute before attempting to start. The headlight will provide a 5A load that will get the unit warmed up. (lower temps may require longer)
That sounds counter-intuitive - with a discharged battery, drawing that kind of load will just make it worse. But again, the battery is not discharged - just need to get those ions moving. Don't worry that you will discharge it - it will run for quite a while (especially an 18) without getting into trouble. So if in doubt - and it is really cold (bike been left outside at night in freezing temps) - just leave light on a bit longer before attempting to start.
It is an odd quirk, but treat it right and it will be trouble free.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered the The 18 today. Thanks for the insight
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 03:10 PM
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i have been reading about the lith-ion batteries from what i have seen in several places Shorai advertizes the most but is not the best performing in same price range, others for more $$$ far excede in performance. less weight is better for sure but at double the cost it should perform better since most of us are not pro racers but its your $$$$
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 04:31 PM
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i have been reading about the lith-ion batteries from what i have seen in several places Shorai advertizes the most but is not the best performing in same price range, others for more $$$ far excede in performance. less weight is better for sure but at double the cost it should perform better since most of us are not pro racers but its your $$$$
Shorai's are NOT Lithium Ion. They are Lithium Iron (LiFe). Big difference. I beg to differ on the performance aspect. I have used another brand and had piss poor results from them. There are other LiFe options out there aside from Shorai and Ballistic(total crap!) but the ones I have found are MORE expensive than Shorai and have no discernibly better track record performance wise....

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-10-2012, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by DEcosse View Post
Go with the biggest capacity you can afford - 18 ideally.



Just to clarify further - the battery will give indication similar to a lead/acid battery in state of discharge - it will appear to be unable to turn over the engine, or at least very slowly. However the significant difference is that the LiFePO4 battery is NOT really discharged - just that the ions are quite immobile at low temp.
The work-around is to pre-heat the battery - you can self-heat it very simply by just turning on the headlight for 30s to a minute before attempting to start. The headlight will provide a 5A load that will get the unit warmed up. (lower temps may require longer)
That sounds counter-intuitive - with a discharged battery, drawing that kind of load will just make it worse. But again, the battery is not discharged - just need to get those ions moving. Don't worry that you will discharge it - it will run for quite a while (especially an 18) without getting into trouble. So if in doubt - and it is really cold (bike been left outside at night in freezing temps) - just leave light on a bit longer before attempting to start.
It is an odd quirk, but treat it right and it will be trouble free.
I found that very interesting.

does this also apply with other batteries like lead acid, etc?

and could this be valid for EFI bikes that have trouble starting in low temps as reported in other posts?

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 01:17 AM
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I found that very interesting.

does this also apply with other batteries like lead acid, etc?

and could this be valid for EFI bikes that have trouble starting in low temps as reported in other posts?
Yes but there's a limit due to the space available. The newer Bonnies have had the larger battery installed as fitted to carbed bikes, the YTX12-BS, but as this is a little larger than the one they've been fitting up until May 2011 or so, the YT12B-BS, there has been some alterations to the airbox and the routing of the battery cables to accomodate it.

I don't know the details of the alterations needed though.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-11-2012, 10:11 AM
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I think the biggest advantage (and the one I am willing to pay the additional money for) is their low self discharge rate. If you have a bike that you ride regularly, like a daily commuter, then this is not really an issue for you. But, if you have a bike that sits and isn't ridden regularly, not having to deal with a battery tender is convenient.

I bought one for Tweety, my track bike, because it sits all summer long when it's just too hot to ride in all the gear. This past summer I pulled the battery out and, following Shorai's instructions, placed it in at zip lock bag. It then got stored in the back of the refrigerator and forgotten about. Six months later I pulled it out, set it in the sun to warm, and when I reinstalled it, it started the bike crisply and with out hesitation.

It will remain in the bike until next summer when I will repeat the same procedure. Until then it will only be charged when ridden during track days.

If you have a computer bike this doesn't work as the electronics will drag it down there by negating the advantage.

I just bought a second one for the '71 Bonneville that I just completed. It doesn't get ridden regularly so a battery tender would be a must. Further more, the charging system is such that normal riding doesn't really keep it charged. But, what I am doing is placing it on charge after riding, removing the charger once it is fully recharged, and then I don't have to bother with it until I ride it again which might be a week or more.

But, they are light and small so for others that might be enough to justify the price.

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Last edited by BirdoPrey; 12-11-2012 at 10:13 AM.
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