Chain Adjustment Slipping - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bonza View Post
after adjusting the chain whether slackening or tightening you need to remove the end play from the adjuster, hence final movement anti clockwise to 5Nm, or just nipped up firm.

if the end play in the adjusters are not taken out the chain will slacken even though the axle nut is torqued up tight
Exactly. You can tighten the axle nut to spec and it will still slip if you don't snug the adjusters counter-clockwise. Been there, done that.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by klem View Post
... removing the mufflers puts me off even though i have a torque wrench.
I prefer not to remove the exhausts just to keep it simple. However, it's not so difficult, loosen the clamp (6mm hex key), remove the rear foot rest nut (12mm spanner), remove the foot peg while supporting the exhaust and ease it off the pipe, rest on an old folded bath towel to protect the chrome finish.

Before re-fitting clean off the old sealant and re-apply a new bead of clear RTV sealant, slip the exhaust on the pipe, loosely fit the rear peg, tighten the clamp, tighten the rear peg, wipe off any excess sealant and you're done.

Although you may find you can get by without the RTV sealant, I had the exhaust off for a new tyre in September and refitted it just as it came off and it resealed fine.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 11:39 AM
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I never put sealant on my exhaust, and never have a problem,in fact there wasnt any on from new.

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Art View Post
When you have your car tyres replaced the garage doesn't torque the wheel nuts, sure they put a torque wrench on after tightening just to insure they are +specification. I've yet to see a tyre fitter check the torque and find it needs another nip.
That is why so many tire shops had to replace rotors on MK1 Toyota MR-2's. Over ~80 ft-lbs and often the rotors would warp... It is a range for a reason, but it isn't always a critical one.

I generally don't use my torque wrench (but I am pretty well calibrated) but for certain jobs, it is a very necessary item to do correctly.

Oh, and I always torqued when I worked at Tire Station (now Firestone)...
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 03:25 PM
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I used to work in a service / repair garage and had to torque everything, especially wheel nuts.
I believe garages in the UK are more or less obliged to torque wheel nuts after complaints of over tightening with air tools and owners not being able to remove them in the event of a puncture. I've also heard cases of them shearing after hitting pot holes.
Manufacturers use torque settings for good reason.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 04:48 PM
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I dont think anyone is arguing the merits of a torque wrench and would agree they are essential in many cases. we can all cite cases of over tightened wheel nuts and even a few undertightened wheel nuts.
however I dont think it is relevant in what the OP originally enquired, unless he is completely inexperienced in tightening a nut

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