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post #51 of 392 (permalink) Old 11-25-2012, 06:48 PM
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post #52 of 392 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 10:58 PM
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I'm having simular problems with my 2012 Bonneville SE. Dealer #1 says "it's a common problem and Triumph is working on a solution". Fealer #2 says "gee we have never heard of that happening before". An independent repair shop said " there could be a problem in the electrical system" (Duh, do ya think). I'm gonna just ride the damn thing until it develops further, then maybe I can figure it out. Bad ju-ju?
"If I can't fix it I'll fix it so nobody else can fix it!"
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post #53 of 392 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 08:39 AM
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since posting a response to this thread back in june, my new T100 (1028km) has on occasions started doing this. My suspicions are at the point of starting, the battery voltage dips below the ECU dropout threshold(apparently 12.4v). This would not be uncommon due to the starter motor current is at it's highest at zero rotation. Depending on where the motor is starting from eg. beginning of the compression stroke. this point would put the starter motor at a point of needing max torque. A motor will draw what every current it needs to attain its rated rpm to the point of destruction (burnt out). generally motor current overloads protect the motor from doing this (over current versus time = overload trip) but the bike has no such device but a fuse. Therefore with the starter motors need for current - the limiting factor is the battery cranking current. If this peak level is thresholded then the voltage drops. ALL this happens in milliseconds.
My conclusion is that I will connect my multimeter (with Min/Max voltage capture - high speed) and attempt to log what the battery is doing at this point to confirm my theory.
Thus I will report back within the week I hope, when I can set it up. Knowing my luck it'll start first shot every time!
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post #54 of 392 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 09:53 AM
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Thanks in advance for your efforts Captain. We await your results.

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post #55 of 392 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 05:29 PM
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Since I started to start my Bonnie as soon as I turn the key on with the choke out it hasn't failed once. If I don't it does fail quit often. I try to get it before the speedo needle returns back to zero. After it warms up I don't have to pull the choke out. It's kind of a race. Strange thing these Brit Bikes say what. That is one reason for relocating my ignition switch right above the handle bars.
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post #56 of 392 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 07:09 PM
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I think Triumph needs to get this resolved an issue a recall

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post #57 of 392 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 01:47 AM
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I can tell you that Cpt. Bert is on the money. I have a 2009 Thruxton that I bought new. When the batt started getting sad I started with the starting issues. It is definately the voltage drop, not relays, side stand or clutch lockouts. I have seen the failure and shown it to the dealer. I had the seat off and a meter on the batt. After a series of starts and stops the Batt fell below the ECM start thresh hold and said sorry no more. Dealer doesnt know, head scratching. I have wired a remote charge/ jump fitting to the R/H end of the frame seat rail and I can hook up my old battery when I get a no start and bang, away we go. Triumph need to program in a lower thresh hold. The battery will crank like mad at 12 volts and I can do this by operating the start relay under the L/H side cover. I realy cant beleive that they havent fixed this issue yet. Cmon Mr Triumph
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post #58 of 392 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by moth View Post
I realy cant beleive that they havent fixed this issue yet. Cmon Mr Triumph
Neither can I. I thought they brought out their near-mythical "urban tune" to deal with that as far back as 2009.
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post #59 of 392 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 07:52 AM
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If all those who are having problems, follow the handbook instruction precisely, then there is a manufacturer problem.

However, many many people on here who are complaining about this issue have clearly stated that they believe they shouldn't need (therefore use) the start control on a warm engine.

In the handbook it states to use it, always use the fast idle control:

"To Start the Engine:

• Release the steering lock.
• Check that the engine stop switch is in the 'RUN' position.
• Insert the ignition key and turn the ignition switch to the 'ON' position.
• Ensure that the transmission is in neutral.
• Pull the clutch lever fully into the handlebar.

If the engine is cold, pull out the choke, noting the following: Above 77F (25C) air temperature, pull out the choke to the first position.
Below 77 F (25C) air temperature, pull out the choke fully.

If the engine is partly warm, pull out
the choke to the first position

If peeps insist on operating equipment outside the manufacturers instructions, that's up to them. But surely this is not something that Triumph should be blamed for.

The only time I have ever had this issue is when I don't use the fast idle control.

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post #60 of 392 (permalink) Old 11-28-2012, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by thebiglad View Post
"...The only time I have ever had this issue is when I don't use the fast idle control."
Does pulling the fast idle control activate a "switch" or is it more like a buttlerfly valve in a carburator? I'm just wondering how the engine control module gets any feedback indicating that it's been activated.

- Stephen
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