How To: DIY Oil Pressure Gauge - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
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How To: DIY Oil Pressure Gauge

This was an item I have always wanted for my Bonneville but could not for the life of me come to terms to spending close to $200 for the kit. I finally had some free time between all the trackdays to do my research and find the right parts to make an oil pressure gauge.

I spent approximately $75 plus random parts in the garage and a little bit of elbow grease to make my own oil pressure gauge that I am completely satisfied with.

I bought a good majority of my parts off Summit Racing (www.summitracing.com)

Here are the parts that I bought from Summit Racing and the prices that I bought them at:

Stainless Steel Braided Hose (Russell Performance Endura 12" Straight -3 to Straight -3 - Street Legal) Part# RUS-656022 $16.96

Double Banjo Bolt (Russell Performance 10mm x 1.25mm Double Banjo Bolt) Part # RUS-40508--this will include 3 aluminum crush washers $6.85

Banjo (Russel Performance 10mm Banjo x -3 male 90 degree) Part # RUS-R4051C $5.32

Gauge fitting to hose (Autometer Right Angle Fitting) Part # ATM-3270 $5.25

***I decided to buy my gauge from Amazon because I didn't really like the design of the oil filled pressure gauge that Summit Racing had. However if you fancy it, it is an Accel Liquid Filled Oil Pressure Gauge Part # ALM-7122***

The things I had in my garage for this project:

Exhaust metal strapping (available at most auto parts stores)
Rustoleum Spray paint
various washers and lock washers
a couple copper crush washers

The "Elbow Grease" Part:

I cut a strip of exhaust metal strapping kit to make the bracket to hold the gauge. Once I found the desired length I actually had to make the mounting holes bigger for both the gauge and for the bolt. I simply used a stepped pyramid bit and a drill press to do this. (No problemo)

The next step is what takes patience...I had to figure out a way to bend the strip of metal I cut so it holds the gauge at the desired angle. I used a hammer and anvil to make the bends I wanted. This was a lot of trial and error...but nothingto worry about. I spent about 15 minutes with this. Once I got the bracket to bend how I wanted, I wanted to prevent it from rusting. I grabbed a can of Rustoleum spray paint I had laying in the garage and sprayed the bracket and let it dry overnight.



Once I had all my pieces together, it was time to install everything. To install everything, just follow this youtube video:


Things to note while installing:

The original banjo bolt on there I believe you need to use a 5/8. The new double banjo bolt uses a 9/16 wrench. I guess all banjo bolts use SAE

I used a spare copper crush washer I had in my garage that sit between the engine and original oil line...and then used the aluminum crush washers that came with the double banjo bolt for the banjo fitting and top of the banjo bolt.



I wrapped teflon tape around the threads on the gauge, threaded nipple on the banjo fitting, and threaded nipple on the right angle fitting just to make sure I do not have any leaks

The order I had for the gauge and bracket was: flat washer, bracket, locking washer, right angle fitting



Once I had everything in place, I tightened everything down.

Here's how I routed my hose:


If you need pictures for reference, here is the photo album of it all:
https://plus.google.com/photos/10996...MaPrvqrxpiRwgE

Hope this helps
AndrewI likes this.

Last edited by tooblekain; 02-02-2012 at 05:43 AM.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 06:33 AM
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Fantastic, thanks.

Only this week there were calls for this sort of tutorial on another thread...
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 09:06 AM
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Did that bango bolt fit the stock oil line and the new oil line good enough to keep them lined up so they wont move ? That maybe what I need for my gauge the bolt that came with it lets the lines move around and causes leaks.

Why do I feel young on my bike
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinva View Post
Did that bango bolt fit the stock oil line and the new oil line good enough to keep them lined up so they wont move ? That maybe what I need for my gauge the bolt that came with it lets the lines move around and causes leaks.
When I finally tightened everything down both the oil line and the new oil line didn't seem to move. Plus the banjo bolt I bought I made sure was not some cheap cast aluminum or cheap cast metal (to minimize the chance of breaking it from over tightening); but rather was pretty beefy. This is one of the reasons I used Summit Racing. I know they sell good quality parts and have great customer service. One of the first things I did was test if it was magnetic and it was. I practically "german torqued" that bolt down (not too much though keep in mind) to make sure there were no leaks. I still need to ride test it to make sure there are no leaks. I let it run at idle for about 3 minutes and no sign of leaking.

If it does leak I may put a bead of red RTV around it (common thing to do for trackday bikes) and see if that stops it. If it still leaks, I will probably go back to the drawing board and find a better double banjo bolt

EDIT: 15 mile ride to work today and no sign of any leaking. I may need to test this out with a longer ride.

Last edited by tooblekain; 02-02-2012 at 12:08 PM.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 04:49 PM
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Great job and a great how-to! Bookmarked this thread, I'll be following your path shortly. Thanks!

"Cognito Ergo Wrenchum"
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 09:23 PM
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I did this install tonight. But I used the kit from BC. I like where it sits. I do have a silly question. What is the proper oil pressure for our Bonnies? Mine was reading 69psi @ 1000rpm and 80psi @ 3000rpm.

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 09:51 PM
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Maybe not directly relevant to your 360, however the 270 guys that run oil pressure gauges report a low of 20 - 25psi at idle, 80psi above that.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-02-2012, 11:13 PM
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Great write up, thanks for posting it!

One little FYI:

Quote:
Originally Posted by tooblekain View Post
Double Banjo Bolt (Russell Performance 10mm x 1.25mm Double Banjo Bolt) Part # RUS-40508--this will include 3 aluminum crush washers $6.85

[...]

The new double banjo bolt uses a 9/16 wrench. I guess all banjo bolts use SAE
14mm and 9/16" wrenches are basically interchangeable. 14mm is ever so slightly tighter, which will be apparent with a 14mm tool on a 9/16 bolt if paint is involved.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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3 Week Follow up...so far so good

Hey everyone,

I wanted to do an extended follow up to this project since I feel that most follow ups for anything are done way too soon.

I'm happy to report that everything works perfectly fine and there are no signs of leaks. The banjo bolt is holding both stainless steel lines really snug. My only "complaints" are I wish I had a way of illuminating the gauge so I can see at night. I may change the gauge itself to an Accel one (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ALM-7122/) since the current gauge I have looks really cool, but hard to see the readout when you want a quick glance.

I may experiment in the distant future of finding a way to mount it around the handlebar or close to the speedo and tach...who knows.

Next project I'm mentally toying with is how to mount an electronic oil temperature gauge...but still trying to figure out where to put a sending unit. Ive been thinking about maybe a screwed on sending on top of a banjo bolt...at this point its a matter of sourcing it.
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-23-2012, 07:37 PM
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I have a gauge with a white face and red needle. I have no issues reading it while riding. Just make sure that you are on a straight away before taking a peek.

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