I want to lower the oil cooler on my America in order to show off the front of the motor.
It doesn't look like a nightmare but where do you get hoses etc. ?
Try your telephone directory for hydraulic specialist the ones that work on trucks / plant etc they might be able to help or at least point you in the right direction if you want fancy colours etc.
A surprising source of expertise on hydraulic things like hoses and mechanisms are farm equipment repair shops. Those farm machines incorporate lots of hydraulic actuators and pumps and the mechanics are well used to dealing with them.
For example a fault in my wifes Peugeot Cabrio electro-hydraulic roof which baffled our local dealer, was promptly put right by the local farm mechanic in minutes.
You should be able to get adapters from Aeroquip to convert the oil cooler and engine fittings to -4AN, 6AN, ect. Then you can make up the braided line yourself. Wear gloves.
It appears feasible but I don't have experience having mounting brackets etc. fabricated. Aren't there companies that specialize in fabricating billet brackets per your spec?
I see that you're in Tampa there are a number of Racecar chassis shops around that area. Times are tight and business is slow, I'd look up the names of a couple and take a ride by there and see what they'd charge you to do it if you're not comfortable makeing the lines and brackets and such.
When I "relocated" my cooler,I just used brass plumbing fittings and barbed fittings with hose clamps from HomeDepot. Never a hint of leakage or seeping.
Just happened to be reading a truck mag and article was about triple road train in the north of Aus so running all up weight of @116 tonnes. Gearbox was running at 130deg C on mineral oil which is VERY hot. Also with aircon on cab temp was 45deg C. Switched to Castrol Syntrans M and temp dropped to 95 degC with in cab temps of 25deg C. So oil that is run in frame will make alot of difference.
I believe this was all on a forum a while back and there were temps etc, might need to do a search.
Well,personally,where I ride, I hooked up calibrated Fluke digital pyrometers to the inlet and outlet fittings for a few days of normal riding,assured myself that I wasn't over taxing the bullet proof Bonnie motor,removed them,and now ride the hell out of my bike with no qualms.
Temps look pretty normal to me. Nice job. Can you share any other pictures and advice ? I moved my regulator (replaced actually) to under my BC ARK. And I cleaned up the front end wiring with a D9 lay flat bracket, allow instrument cups and a Joker headlight bracket. Removing the oil cooler would be the final piece of that and I had read that in many climates the Thrux is so overbuilt that it doesn't even need the cooler. Since I'm going with a TPUSA 904 kit, I'd like to keep some cooling though.
... Removing the oil cooler would be the final piece of that and I had read that in many climates the Thrux is so overbuilt that it doesn't even need the cooler. .....
In anycase according to Mike Inva it's not just a matter of engine temps, ...Mike has said that you will lose power due to the secondary pump mumble mumble, cough cough, lose power. (He also suggests that the exhaust valves will/may burn as this is where the oil cooler either exits oil (or vice versa) which keeps the valves from burning(?).
However I emailed the builder of the Hammarland 'Jackpine' Scrambler (the one without any cooler/oil ports plugged) and he claims differently based on the advice he received from a very well known/respected Hinckley Bonneville racer/builder (I can't remember his name, this was 10 months ago, ...he's widely known across the country). Apparently this guy corked the oil ports and dirt raced the Bonnie for 2000 miles hard racing and on tear down no signs of any wear/problems etc.
sure does they got some neat looking stuff.There frame kits look kinda scarey no tubes under the motor might be ok for a near stock motor dont think I would want my 1087 on it.
Mikeinva: I sent them a mail asking for a price on their rolling chassi... and oil cooler..
i think a have to sit down when i get the answer..
ultra light weight!!
I sent them a mail asking for a price on their rolling chassi... and oil cooler..
i think a have to sit down when i get the answer..
ultra light weight!!
An ~100 lb. rolling chassis is intriguing. If the $75,000 build price of the originally commissioned street tracker is any indication, I imagine the parts will be cost prohibitive for most of us. I dig their hydraulic clutch and primary setup...
Further (I know, risky business but I only have one life in which to experiment, as far as I know) we have all seen bike this sans cooler: http://www.bikeexif.com/triumph-t100
Comments from the builder:
"Thanks to all for the insightful comments. The oil cooler was the crux of this build. Initially I was committed to a minimal cooler using a Spurgin heat exchanger but could not achieve the lean effect I wanted. My brother’s encouragement (at times dangerous but always fun) pushed me to do the final build without it. Before I pulled the trigger, I talked with Bill Himmelsbach (http://www.eurosports.net/staff.asp) about his scrambler builds. Bill knows these bikes inside and out and assured me that the oil cooler loop is independent from the lubrication circuit and that capping the feed does not stress the pump. He runs a big bore kit and mild cams without a cooler. After 3000 miles (including a track day and a flogging by the moto journalist Alan Cathcart), Bill disassembled the engine and saw no unusual wear. Furthermore, Bill said there was no color change around the piston wrist pin, an area that turns a telltale gold tint with overheating. That said, I offer the Spurgin cooler set-up as a no cost option. I do not run one on the development mule, but plan to install it when the bike is prepared for my Delhi to Leh-Ladakh ride next spring. Feel free to email directly with additional questions".
I live in a temperate zone. Temperatures seldom reach more than 80-90ºF (27-32ºC).
I have never seen my oil temp gauge rise to more than about 190-198ºF (87-92ºC).
These are almost the same figures as a 2 litre watercooled 4 cylinder car in our household that is blessed with an oil temp gauge as well.
This tells me that Triumph have engineered the cooling system rather well with lots of spare capacity, after all they have to consider the bikes being sold in such disparate places as Norway and somewhere like Death Valley...
alum sheds heat alot better then steel and the fins do a job to.The thing is on most of your rideing the cooler may not be needed but get stuck in traffic stopped it will get hot with the cooler once you get moveing it will cool off pretty quick with out it it will not.
hc pistons make more heat then stock as does more timeing.So on a hot rod you need all the cooling you can get.I am sure triumph put these thing through some test we wouldnt think of doing to our bikes thats why they desided the cooler was needed.I dont think oil temp is what you should be looking at any way.head temp around the exhaust valve is where the oil cooling works.I bet a temp reading in that area would scare you lol.I know someone that blocked off the oil lines in the jugs once and burned some ex valves real quick.
For sure it will fit, but it will also heat soak a lot from the heads, especially at stop lights. It's been 36 hours and they have yet to respond to me though. Typical small company I guess.
After some due diligence I am going with a cooler with a horizontal layout and a minimum footprint. So far I am checking these out. 160 bucks plus asst should run roughly 225 bucks for the job.
If anyone knows of an oil cooler with the spec I am looking for please let me know. I don't care what the cost is as long as it's worth it.
I suspect just running tubing sans cooler might do the job. It has been shown by at least one forum member that your bike will run cooler with the oem cooler removed from the front of the engine where it effectively blocks air flow.
Running copper tubing with perhaps an extra few inches or hidden loops (or loop it underneath the block) will provide cooling in its own right. The guy who built the Jackpine scrambler (see Bikeexif) ran with the oil exit ports capped completely and claims it doesn't (and did not) hurt the bike, internal parts were inspected after a few thousand miles, the bike was also dirt track raced.
Personally I think the cooler sucks in the looks dept. and wonder if Triumph put it on there to protect those bikes sold to Texas, Arizona type owners who sit in traffic. The temp. hardly ever goes over 72 here and I never sit in traffic. YMMV
The 865 cc engine internals are stock, but the removal of the oil cooler threw me at first. It’s apparently had no injurious effect: “with richer jetting and new pipes, oil temperatures have not been a problem,” says Hammarhead. “I constructed a custom Spurgin oil cooler for the bike, but while I was waiting for the lines to arrive, my brother encouraged me to throw in a few plugs and light the bike. We ran it with an oil temp gauge and slowly became more confident. For nervous folks (like me) an oil cooler is a no-cost option.”
OK. So I study your pictures and head out to the garage. As I'm crawling around under my bike I find that both of my frame tubes have what look like vent holes. They are about 1/8" in diameter. Did your frame have these? I wonder if it is something unique to my 09.
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