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Voltage

2K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  Buzz Bar 
#1 ·
With all of this new electronic stuff, Is it time that motorcycles drop the 12V game and move to 24 or 36 Volts.

Reason I say this just look at all the heating options these days. Then more and more stuff depend on juice like ABS, fueling, computer power, so on and so forth. Looks like they should consider moving up to 24 Volts.
 
#2 · (Edited)
I don't think ECU functions and TC, ABS, IMU, etc use much power. It's really a function of the alternator's output, not the running voltage. With ever increasing HP figures, the alternators could produce more without robbing power from the engine. Full boat BMW with all the accessories don't seem to tax their charging systems. If you go to higher DC voltages, you would have to step down the voltage for all the lamps, etc or have the industry change the standard. Don't see that happening nor a reason to go that route.

Remember, unlike cordless battery tools that run solely on their batteries, Motorcycles and cars use the battery as a starter battery and a storage device to keep the voltage linear and balanced. The alternator supplies the power and voltage once the engine is running. If the alternator doesn't supply enough wattage, then the battery has to contribute which would cause it to discharge without a proper recharge. A larger alternator output is the key, in my view. Sport bikes keep the number lower to maintain more engine power, but it's become moot in my view since HP figures keep going up with lighter bike weights.

There are reasons to go up in voltage if you have large power accessories. Boat owners go through this. Smaller boats generally run on 12V systems, but larger boats with large power requirements, inverters will run a 24V system. Wire size can drop saving money as well as amps will drop for a given load. I just don't see this need for motorcycles unless you are running high wattage lighting, heated everything, etc.
 
#6 ·
I don't think ECU functions and TC, ABS, IMU, etc use much power. It's really a function of the alternator's output, not the running voltage. With ever increasing HP figures, the alternators could produce more without robbing power from the engine. Full boat BMW with all the accessories don't seem to tax their charging systems. If you go to higher DC voltages, you would have to step down the voltage for all the lamps, etc or have the industry change the standard. Don't see that happening nor a reason to go that route.

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Sure. Most BMWs have 500W automobile type alternators. And just a few years ago, some were 700w alternators. Of course I have never had a problem with the shunt type in my Yamaha or Ducati.
 
#4 ·
A few years ago, I would have agreed this is a good idea, but things are changing. The ECU, and other electronics are not the big consumers of power. It has always been the lighting and electric motors. The ECU's are all solid state. Lighting now is more often than not LED. I have converted a lot of my older bikes to LED lighting. It really puts a lot less load on the alternator and battery systems. Now if you are using a heated vest or hand grips, that might be a different story. ...J.D.
 
#5 ·
I have converted a lot of my older bikes to LED lighting. It really puts a lot less load on the alternator and battery systems. Now if you are using a heated vest or hand grips, that might be a different story. ...J.D.
I'm not sure you are doing your charging system any favors converting to LED's. With shunt type R/R that our bikes have the alt is operating at max output all the time. The excess energy is dumped off through heat through the R/R. The more accessories you have drawing current the less the load on the fragile R/R, replacing the lighting with LED's causes the R/R to work harder. Replacing the shunt type with a series type (Shindengen SH775) R/R and using LED's would lessen the charging load... IMO.
 
#7 · (Edited)
rweb: You may be right. I don't know but one of those bikes is a '95 that has LED tail lights and marker lights. It's headlights (2) are still halogen. It has been running that way since about 2005 with no issues. One of the others I coverted it's headlight and idiot lights to LED about 2 years ago. A third bike has only LED tail lights so far. Has anyone out thier experience a problem with this ? Let me know. I've had no problems so far. I guess time will tell. ...J.D.
 
#8 ·
No sonic. They need fatter alternators.

Switching voltages on the vehicles, especially to 24 or 48 would be tough. + lead would become earth ground at that point, for starters, not to mention all the other complications that extend to a whole world of fun.

That little alternator (which i think is only 30 amps max) is your limiting factor for accessories. What the alternator cannot provide draws off the battery.

The heaters/pumps/AB's motor will be the big loads. The lights are nothing when they are led. Incandescent... Ok it's up there.

The challenge would be to move away from a permanent magnet alternator, but considering the flywheel has tradionally been the magnet, and exists in a bath of oil, it's not easy it would seem.

The computer is also tiny. Your phone charger would probably take more than your Ecu.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 
#9 ·
No sonic. They need fatter alternators.

Switching voltages on the vehicles, especially to 24 or 48 would be tough. + lead would become earth ground at that point, for starters, not to mention all the other complications that extend to a whole world of fun.

What do you mean the + lead would become earth ground? You do know there have been some military vehicles with 24v systems?
 
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