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2012 Bonneville SE changed clutch lever/bike won't start

9K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  YrfuneralMytrial 
#1 ·
Hi,

Tonight I changed the brake and clutch levers on my 2012 Bonneville. Brake...all good. Clutch...seemed all good. Replaced with stock Triumph lever (previous owner had a couple of yard tip-overs and knocked the little ball ends off both levers). Bike was running, starting, doing all functions perfectly. New battery. Anyway, after I changed the clutch lever, the bike won't start. It goes through it's key on wind over, good juice...push the button and nothing. I'm guess I've somehow tripped a clutch sensor, but that's about all I know. I took the lever off and reinstalled it. No change. Getting the old one off and the new one on was easy, no problem. At a loss. Anyone?
 
#2 ·
You might have upset the clutch safety switch, it's a spring-loaded plunger-operated one like in the photo. When you pull the clutch lever towards the bars the plunger should spring out and it makes a pair of contacts, see that the plunger is free to move in and out:



If you need to remove it for closer inspection this is the way to do it:

 
#4 ·
Perhaps the contacts are corroded although it's a bit of a coincidence that the fault would show up when the lever was changed. When the plunger is right out two contacts are made, access the two wires from behind the switch, poke a fine pin through their insulation until the pin contacts the conductor inside and connect to a ohmmeter or continuity tester. Operate switch and see that the contacts close as the lever is withdrawn giving full continuity and a very low resistance 0.3 Ohms or less.

You can also access the switch contacts through a connector within the headlamp but it's a lot more involved:

 
#6 ·
It is very poorly made. I had dirty contacts some while ago giving intermittent starts. Tried to dismantle the switch for cleaning and it fell apart in my hand. Close inspection showed how weak and fragile it was, so I've deleted it by connecting the two wires together, bit of insulating sleeving and tucked them away within the loom.
 
#15 ·
I feel your pain on that one man. Was working on my friends Yamaha vino before and we had to remove the controls from the bars. Afterwards the electirc starter wouldn't work at all. We didn't touch it except to move it a little. After a frustrating hour or so we realized there was so much corrosion on the contacts with JUST enough space to make a proper connection if everything aligned perfectly, but one little bump messed with the alignment and screwed the whole thing up. Corrosion and fragile parts don't get along.

Hopefully it is something simple to fix, good luck.
 
#13 ·
Yes, thank you. For what it's worth, here's where I'm at on this issue at the moment. It's pretty odd, but I've worked all day and maybe I'm not thinking clearly. Anyway, I pulled the safety switch out resolved to snip it, connect the two wires and bypass it completely. Before I did the cuts, for some reason I tried to start it and it started right up. Switch just dangling to the side. I still had to pull the clutch in (neutral) to start it. So, I put the switch back in, no start. I pulled the switch back out just a little and it starts. But, it's like it's functioning with the safety switch inserted. I took the clutch lever off and really made sure I put it back on correctly. Same. It starts in neutral with the clutch pulled in. No start in neutral with clutch released. So, I'm either a bit tired and stupid or the whys are escaping me. Now, the switch will not fully insert (click into) place. I just have it placed in the housing for the moment. Anyway, starts right up.


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#14 ·
Does the lever have that little wheel on top marked 1,2,3,4 for "reach" adjustment? With some aftermarket ones the clutch switch does not operate well in some settings, that is the switch plunger is not let out far enough for the contacts to work. Shouldn't happen with a factory replacement though.

On the other hand the switch might have a stiff plunger, or a tired spring that's not allowing its full travel, or defective contacts. The contacts are in bare brass and the switch is not really fully sealed, so corrosion is a real possibility.
 
#16 ·
Yes, these do have 4-way adjusters, but so did the stock levers. Looking at them, side by side, they're identical. I actually tried several times with reinstalling and using the various adjustments. No luck. It's starting fine now. I still can't figure out how as I did not ground the safety switch not is it being used/actuated...but it's all functioning as if it is. Bike won't start unless clutch is pulled in. Odd. Again, thanks for the insight and time.


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#17 · (Edited)
The clutch lever has to be pulled to start the bike no matter what gear it is in. There is no by-pass to that if it's in neutral. Yes it would be nice if it had that, like my Honda has, but these bikes don't.

EDIT: It would appear that the earlier models would start in neutral without the clutch lever pulled. I don't know when that changed, so for clarification I will say that on MY bike the clutch lever has to be pulled to start the engine.
 
#20 ·
If you have the switch out it is the same as having the clutch lever pulled. The plunger moves out to make the contact. When you push the switch back in the hole it pushes the plunger in, thereby interrupting the circuit. It's a normally closed switch at rest, which is when the plunger is out. Try starting the bike with the switch out but push the plunger in. It won't start then.
 
#21 ·
I'm a bit confused, but thanks! If I'm understanding you correctly, pulling it out has it in closed position...therefore, it starts. But, before, I had to unsnap it, pull away and put a paper clip to the two wires to "close it" and get it to start. Maybe I'm misunderstanding.


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