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Belt Drive on a Triumph

13K views 53 replies 22 participants last post by  Kiwi Tiger 
#1 ·
#4 ·
I am (running this setup)



It's smooth but a bit expensive imho, I had the opportunity to get this one for barely nothing so I bit the bullet and bought it, but I wouldn't have payed the full price.
It's quiet and it's a really nice piece of work, it looks good, feels good and it's quite special and unique so if you have the budget and love it, go fr it ;)
 
#12 · (Edited)
isn't there going to be wear on the overrun (engine braking) side too? Obviously not as much as the engine pulling side, but it won't be like a new sprocket will it?

if you're getting over 20,000m out of a chain seems right to renew the sprockets with the chain, for me it's a 'just do it'!

in the underwear analogy, inside out underpants are not the same as clean ones!
 
#17 ·
i have the scootworks kit installed by me for several years. although some-one reported problems i promptly got a complete kit. the carbon-kevlar belt is barely wider than the chain + the chain guard works by flattening the mounting bracket + leaning out a bit. photo bucket not working as is common at times, i posted pics in the past, + kit is $580
 
#18 ·
Belt Drive Conversion?
WHY!?
I just don't get it. (as he scratches his head)

Apparently some have run out of things to spend their money on.

ANYTHING else, but a rubber band conversion.

Another watch.
Another gun.
Something for the wife.
Something for the girlfriend.
A rental girlfriend.
A Lobster Roll ........... twice a week for a year.

But hey .............. that is just me ............... I prefer Carburetors on a motorcycle as well.

Fodder for conversation I suppose.:wink2:
 
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#26 ·
that new bonneville belt drive looks to be a scootworks kit, as most bonneville specialists are just resellers! i seen that kit out of stock when i bought my new 2012 bonnie, still looks the same. beside being better for offroading the chains many ratios + easy change win hands down. the belts very minimal adjustment + NO maintenance + the reason i bought it a clean oil free rear wheel, just dust it off thats it!!! belts generally go 50,000 to a 100,000 miles, but rocks + age can reduce the mileage
 
#31 ·
The only thing better than chain or belt drive is shaft drive. I know it eats up a little HP but when you have a 110 cid engine I doubt you will notice. Man that VTX 1800 sure eats up the road.
Come to think of it, I now have all 3 types. Scooter is belt drive.
 
#37 ·
i like to tinker + maintain my rides but, cleaning + oiling a chain is not on my list of favs!! offroad a chain rules, but its cheaper for a manufacturer to use chain drives so most do. i like to keep my bikes clean + dusty wheels beat oily greasy ones, especially when they are spoked. given the no cost option of a chain or belt when new few would pick a chain!! chains + their lubes are better than ever but like carbs + damper rod forks they are cheap + outdated!! i like chocolate you like vanilla thats life
 
#39 ·
I just rely on my main-man mechanic at Speyside Moto in Titusville, FL. Paul builds Triumph race bikes and has been doing it for a long time. He says that if belt drive was better, the racers would be using it. The high end stress that racers put on bikes would tear up a belt. He upgraded my 2010 Bonne SE with about all that could be done to improve power. Went from 58 HP to 85 HP and must use only high test gasoline. At age 74, I still enjoy getting on it when taking off from traffic lights and having all the "kids" marvel. "Whut's he got in that thang?"

So, sticking with chain.
Oh yeah, I did go one tooth less on the primary sprocket in order to get out of the hole faster. One can not swap gear ratio with a belt. Anytime I want to go up or down, in gearing, it is not problem with a chain.

Lastly, costs of chains, sprockets and maintenance is all relative to what sport one engages in. My friends run a drag racer and pay thousands of dollars for tires every season. It is all relative.
 
#40 ·
Well if I am on the Racing Circuit yes I want a chain and all the benefits of it, I, like 99% of the people out there are not racing bikes but instead use them as transport etc... and seeing that my other bike that is 110hp with 88 lbs and the new X Diavel is 150hp with 95 lbs and both have belts the idea that they will "Blow Up" and shred nonsense is crap. If I start Drag Racing I will assume I will need to buy more tires and parts yes. I have a 56hp overweight Triumph Scrambler, the fact it has a chain is mostly for looks just as the Fake Carbs and other nonsnese on my bike came with.
 
#45 · (Edited)
Ha!:laugh2:

"Rental girlfriend" is an attempt at PC for ...... Hooker, Prostitute, Lady of the night, Working Girl, Professional, and Lot Lizzard.
Let us not forget the ever popular "S*L*U*T".
While not literally in the "paid for" category ........ Sl*t's usually require Drinks, Dinner, Jewelry, and maybe even a trip to the doctor (who does not prescribe for free!) ............ and thus, Indirectly paid for.
To LEAVE, of course!:wink2:


A quick note to the offended.......................
Relax, it's all in fun .......... and gest.

Even us men require courting ........... just differently.
As long as the knee's separate sufficiently ........... we're good! ( not to mention .... Easy!)
>:)
 
#46 ·
It goes without saying that everyone should do the mods on their own MC in whatever fashion that they choose. If you want belt drive on your Bonneville, go for it.
Briefly, I did look into it and here are my reasons for sticking with chain:

(1) Initial cost has been quoted as $800 and that is figuring doing the installation yourself. An OEM chain and sprocket kit, directly from Triumph is $193.

(2) Belts are more suseptible to damage. Rocks thrown up from the road, for instance.

(3) Quoted from a Triumph specialists: "Lastly, the team of engineers (not keyboard cowboys) that designed the bike all agree that a chain and sprocket setup is by far the most cost efficient and practical way to get the power to the rear wheel. (Notice that there are no belt drive bikes in road racing or motocross?)", end of quote.

Over the years, the costs probably is about equal given the longevity of chain and belt. The final decision is always yours! It is not important what you need, it is important what you want!

Steve Ashe in DeLand, FL
 
#47 ·
as stated above to each his own!! for me on a street driven only bike a belt is a no brainer!! my scootworks kit was under $600 del in USA, install $000 by me, very clean + after minimal stretch being a very strong modern carbon-kevlar belt the only adjustment will be when i change my rear tyre!! + NO NO cleaning necessary!!!! i sold my almost new OE greasy oily PITA chain + sprockets which defrayed cost!! for offroad or drive ratio changes or very high performance racing chains win + 50 to 100 thousand miles is the norm with a belt, although years have an effect as well especially if it sets in the elements unprotected!!
 
#49 ·
So what happens with chain drive if a rock gets between the chain and sprocket? I would think that would be bad as well. I don't know cause either its never happened to me, or it did happen and I didn't know about it and I somehow survived. :dunno
 
#50 ·
My guess would be that usually, the rock loses and is crushed; and that with a belt there is a better than average chance the belt will partially tear or break altogether.

My Buell Ulysses had a belt and it was really nice. I liked the cleanliness of it and not having to worry about periodic adjustments. But on every long trip I felt like I had to take a spare just in case I picked up rock and broke the belt. Maybe I was just paranoid, but being stuck on the side of the road in west Texas or the middle of Alligator Ally in FL did not appeal to my normal sense of adventure.
 
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