This thread is super relevant to me right now. I read pretty much every thread I could find about AI removal and re-mapping the ECU, and it was heard to kind of mush all the different facts and opinions together in my head.
I have a 2013 T100. The only "real" modification was replacing the stock pipes with Norman Hyde Togas. The bike seemed to run fine with no further changes, except for the pretty crazy amount of popping. I didn't mind it too much, but I suspected that neither my neighbors nor the local constabulary would appreciate it in the long term, so I figured I should put a stop to that.
After a bit of Googling, it seemed that AI removal was the most consistently reliable way to stop the popping. Since NH says a remap isn't strictly required, I went with AI removal first because I wasn't ready to be tinkering with fuel mapping.
AI removal did in fact completely stop the popping, and the first time I rode the bike, it seemed to run fine, albeit a bit hot while cruising on the highway (~250*F according to my oil plug temp gauge) for ~45 min at 70-80mph on a hot day (~85+*F, IIRC). The temp dropped down to something more normal once I got off the highway (even though I was being a hooligan on back roads).
BUT... When I rode it the next day, it stalled on startup when I tried to use the fast idle switch, then restarted fine and idled low/rough until it warmed up a bit. I bumped up the idle a little with the idle adjustment knob, which helped. Now, it starts "strong" and reliably without using the fast idle switch. No idea why the AI affected this.
Since the idle was wonky (albeit less so once I adjusted the knob) and there was also a slight surge at low speed+low throttle openings (which I understood to be a symptom of running lean), I decided to experiment with some new maps.
[EDIT: Removed some stuff here that was totally not correct]
Where I'm at now, is that I've remapped the ECU with TuneECU. I considered going with one of the TTP tunes, but there aren't any that match my situation. This is my first experience with doing any ECU mapping, so hopefully I'm interpreting the fuel maps correctly.
Based on comments in other threads, I skipped the TORS map for now. I tried the Arrow 2:2 map (20505) first, because it looked "safer" (i.e. more rich) than the stock map which was looked to be on the lean side at normal cruising speed/load. It ran fine, but it seemed a little sluggish, so I switched to the Arrow 2:1 map (20504) which appears marginally more lean until WOT, where it gets more rich. Now it seems to be running better, and doesn't feel as sluggish, but that's highly subjective. Since it's not doing anything screwy (yet), I figured I'd leave it as-is and see how the spark plugs look after awhile. It does still seem to run a bit hot, but my test rides were on particularly hot (90+*F) and humid days, so I'd like to see how it is on a more reasonable day where the pavement isn't radiating so much heat.
In retrospect, if I could do it over again, I'd probably leave the AI system alone (or start with the marble trick rather than immediately pulling the whole thing out) and try the re-mapping first.
A few questions:
1) Does anyone know how long it would take to start seeing the "effects" of the changes I've made reflected on the spark plugs?
2) Does anyone know/recall whether the idle fluctuates at all on a bone stock bike? I can't remember for sure, but I'm inclined to say it did (just +/- 20ish RPM, not bouncing all over the place).
3) Aside from ripping the AI system out before just testing it, have I done anything particularly stupid?
Apologies for the wordy post. I tried to be detailed for someone stumbling across the thread in the future. :smile2: