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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 11:00 AM
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Went all the way down to 37° F last night. Rode to work this morning. I'm not really seeing any storage plans in my future.

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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 01:14 PM
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You know, since I was a kid, I was always told that oil and water don't mix.
Now people are talking about the oil in the motors absorbing water.
How does that work?
Does that mean all my half empty (or is it half full??) containers of oil on my garage shelf are no good?
For my new 2012 Bonnie, the oil gets changed according to the manual, 800km, 10,000km, 20,000km etc... weather it goes out everyday or sits for six months.
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by JustPete View Post
If you're going to spin the engine over don't just pull the plug wires and use the start button. The injectors will fire and you can wash the cylinders with unburned fuel. Either jump the start relay or rotate it in 5th gear using the rear wheel. Just sayin.
Yeah, that is a good point, didn't really think of that as I don't spin the engine anyway. I guess you could pull the injector connectors but that's not too easy on these bikes as they're hidden in the TBs.
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Canuck_T100 View Post
Good point Pete, thanks, I won't use the start button.

I was talking to a friend in the last few days who was a mechanic in a past life and has had lots of experience with storing small engines of different types.
He suggested that I NOT change the oil before storage, change it in the spring prior to the first ride. The reasoning behind that is that the oil in there now has only 1500km on it, so has very little contaminants in it. Over the winter the oil will absorb moisture and since the engine isn't running and burning it off, dump it in the spring and put in clean oil at that point.
Personally I don't think it will make much difference but if I were going to change the oil come spring I may perfer to do it now so it's as good as it can possibly be with no chance of any contaminent present while stored. If you do get any water condensing in the crankcase this will be the same no matter what oil is in there, it won't mix as someone mentioned and will be quickly burned of when spring returns and you engine blossoms into life once again. I can't wait myself!
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 03:10 PM
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Mine gets changed in the spring the bike gets started every month. I let it get hot enough to dry any condensation from the exausts.
Oil WILL circulate through the gears as they are constant mesh they rely on dogs for engagement.
When its been run I move it in the garage to stop the tyres from getting flat spots and spray acf 50 on exposed parts, wiping the bare alloy wheels etc.
If the engine gets hot enough the contaminants evaporate and no harm done, each alternate week it gets a trickle charge for a week and never had any problems.
My 900 Trophy has been fine with this for the past dozen years.
However my garage is heated and insulated so its always warm. If winter is longer than normal I syphon off the tank in the spring and put the fuel in the car and replace with fresh fuel. I do use a stabilizer as well.
Damp is our main enemy I think so avoiding it is vital.

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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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The answer to winter storage ....

I'm surprised at the response to this thread, lot's of ideas, from one extreme to the other.
I might have the ultimate answer though, I may be heading to Florida in the new year and will be spending the winter in the south. No winter storage needed! WooHoo!

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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-12-2012, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Canuck_T100 View Post
Hi all,

Would you change the oil again for winter storage?
No, I wouldn't.

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