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post #31 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 02:17 PM
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Simply rejetting has not cured my issues completely. I’m still getting an unsteady idle from 1500 down to just under 1000. It seems my idle is sort of wandering all over the place. With bike fully warmed up and releasing the throttle, the RPMs will drop down below set idle speed and then rebound back up to current set idle speed. Then, while stopped at a red light, the idle will drop and rebound. Bike stalled once during my 7 mile commute to work this morning. Tonight when I get home and my bike is good and warmed up, I’ll start playing with the idle setting and air mixture screws and see what that does.

I got this from the link I’ve attached: “The ideal procedure for setting the screw in the correct position is to warm up your ATV engine to the proper operating temperature. Then turn the idle up so it is idling about 500 RPM’s higher than normal. Next turn the airscrew all the way in until it bottoms out, once bottomed out slowly back the screw out a ¼ turn at a time (give the engine 10-15 seconds between each ¼ turn of the screw, to allow the engine to catch up with the adjustments). Continue backing the airscrew out until the engine idles at its highest RPM. The preferred setting window is between 1 and 2 turns. If the engine idles at its highest RPM from 0-1 turns out this means the pilot setting is on the LEAN side and a larger pilot jet should be installed. If the engine idles at its highest RPM at over 2 turns out, this means the pilot setting is on the RICH side and a smaller pilot jet should be installed.

If you get no RPM fluctuation when adjusting the air screw there is a very realistic chance that there is something clogging the pilot/slow speed system. Clean the system thoroughly with contact cleaner and blow out with compressed air. Carburetor must be disassembled.”


So I’ll use the following link to tune my carbs and see if I can’t get this sorted out.

http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCent...arbJetting.pdf

Question: I’m assuming shimming the needle has absolutely no effect on idle speed and only serves a purpose curing flat spots at mid-range. Is this correct?

Chris / RudeBoy BIR #309
2014 Scrambler: Arrow 2-1 high pipe. TTP Tune 4 with Breathe airbox cover no baffle.
Past rides:2008 T100, 1975 Honda CB400/4, 1989 Honda GB500, 1965 Honda CB450 Black Bomber, 1972 BSA A75 Rocket3
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post #32 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 12:36 PM
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Fresh 42 pilot jets, new K&N pod filters (thinking the old ones were no longer making a good seal around the mouth of the carb bodies and causing my air leak) and blowing carb cleaner and compressed air thru the pilot jet and air mixture holes seems to have fixed my issue.

Chris / RudeBoy BIR #309
2014 Scrambler: Arrow 2-1 high pipe. TTP Tune 4 with Breathe airbox cover no baffle.
Past rides:2008 T100, 1975 Honda CB400/4, 1989 Honda GB500, 1965 Honda CB450 Black Bomber, 1972 BSA A75 Rocket3
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post #33 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-14-2012, 08:42 PM
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My issue was fixed with new intake manifold o-rings.
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post #34 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ten Thrty2 View Post
Respectfully requesting some help guys, I dont know where to start on this one.


2007 Thruxton, AI Removed, Air box removed, predators fitted and rejet.

Bike idles great and runs strong, however after she's warmed up idle increases from 1050ish to closer to 2K also possibly unrelated but thinking that its not I can feel it almost cough or hiccup and nearly stall and sometimes stall, I feel it cough through the POD filters near my legs, both at the same time.

My thoughts are ignition but Im wondering if I need to go down a size on the idle jets?!?

Thanks guys
Ten Thrty2, Were you ever able to resolve your issue?

Chris / RudeBoy BIR #309
2014 Scrambler: Arrow 2-1 high pipe. TTP Tune 4 with Breathe airbox cover no baffle.
Past rides:2008 T100, 1975 Honda CB400/4, 1989 Honda GB500, 1965 Honda CB450 Black Bomber, 1972 BSA A75 Rocket3
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post #35 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 12:46 PM
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