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It's important to get the proper bolt stretch. If you under or over torque they will loosen up fast and damaged threads will never hold torque again. The engineers that designed your bike spent a lot of time figuring out the correct values and the best way to communicate that to you in the manual.
Read through your manual and jot down all the torque values for the work you're actually going to perform. If you're not going to be tearing down engines and doing all the intricate work on a somewhat regular basis, don't get a wrench for that kind of work.
The most accurate wrenches have the smallest range. A wrench that's 20 to 150 ft lbs will be accurate in a certain area of the range and not so much in another. I have a Craftman clicker that's 5-80 lbs, 3/8 drive. It works good most of the time for the big stuff. It's perfect for axle nuts, head bolts, swingarm pivot, etc. I like it because it's fast. Set it, click, click, click, done.
However, the settings below 20 ft lbs get sketchy. I was doing a job a while back that involved torquing 8 1/4" bolts to 15 ft lbs. For the most part it clicked when it was supposed to, but a couple of them felt different and one bolt snapped the head off without clicking. I borrowed our Snap-On inspection wrench from work and discovered that only 5 out of the 8 bolts were within spec. So I sprung for a nice used Snap on dial type off ebay. I sent it off for calibration right when I got it. My company uses a calibration service for their lab equipment and they do torque wrenches too. I had my Craftsman and the snap-on done for $25. The tech said the Craftsman couldn't really be dialed in very well, but close enough. The values range about 10 pounds in the manual for the big stuff anyway.
Torque becomes much more important in the smaller range below 100 inch pounds. Like the ones used for the small fasteners for the engine covers. It is extremely important that all the bolts are torqued to spec and as close to exacly the same as possible so the cover won't leak. If one bolt is off, it'll throw all the others out of whack. So I recommend a separate wrench for that stuff.
Correct use is important too. Get your technique right, read the instructions that come with your wrench. Only use the wrench to tighten, use another to loosen and preferably always in the same direction. They will remain more accurate and consistent. I use my clicker wrenches exactly the same as I would use a beam wrench. BTW beam wrenches are said to be the most accurate. If you get one of those, get one with an engraved metal guage, not one that can peel off or shift and has a plastic needle.
After all that, you're still reading? I recommend getting a Craftsman or other mid-range wrench because they are decent and cheap. If you can get a dial type even better. Nothing from Harbor Freight because a breaker bar is more accurate. You can get a used industrial wrench from Industrial liquidators or ebay. Check with a local calibration lab to see if they know how to cal the exact wrench you're gonna buy. Also, be prepared if the lab say's it's junk. Of course, Snap-On, Matco and the other high end places are great and last a lifetime.
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