|
Moto, your first couple of posts showed you to be agressive and confrontational and equally demonstrated that you don't know jack about the 885 Classics. I wasn't interested in getting drawn into a point by point argument with you and I'm still not interested in that.
But now that you've worked off most of that initial agression and calmed down a bit...
The Classics line was apparently designed to fit into a specific horsepower niche for the European market. As such, they have serious intake and exhaust restrictions as well as what's probably the mildest cam put into a street motorcycle since the '70s.
The best horsepower you can get from a Classics model is in the range of 60-62 RWHP with the stock airbox, 8750 rpm igniter and the 2:1/1:1 exhaust. That's because the stock airbox only has a single inlet about 1-3/4" in diameter and can't supply sufficient air for larger jets. It takes more air to burn more fuel and produce more power, but the stock air intake system puts a very stiff limit on air delivery, so the maximum usable main jet size with the Keihin carbs is a #102 and that will be a bit rich here and there. #40 pilots work well with the stock airbox but #42 pilots also tend to be rich in spots.
The same bike with ANY modified air intake system (pods, chopped stock filter box, chopped Trophy filter box) will be 70-75 RWHP due to the limits of the exhaust system.
Putting a bigger cam (more lift, longer duration) into the same bike with a modified air intake will (again) produce a maximum of 70-75 RWHP due to the limitations of the exhaust system. The bigger cam can make a significant 'seat of the pants boost' in the midrange (4,000-6,000 rpm) but has virtually no effect on the top end. The bigger cams cause considerable problems with the low and midrange when coupled with intake mods as Badmouth's dyno run shows.
I'd also point out that maximum horsepower is completely misleading standard for determining the performance of a street bike. Horsepower is directly related to rpm so the peak horsepower is usually outside the normal street riding range. The useable indicator of rideability is the flatness of the torque curve -- not the maximum horsepower -- and that's what most of us are trying to address. (Of course, a few more ponies never hurts...)
The big problem we all have with the Keihin CVK carbs is that they're 'proprietary.' Tuning parts are unavailable beyond the main and pilot jets (multiple suppliers) and either the Factory Pro or stock needles. Alternate needle jets are unavailable, the pilot air jets are fixed and not replaceable and the main air jets are also fixed, so we're pretty limited on what we 'Joe Average' wrench heads can do with the carbs.
The alternative is to install something diddleable like FCRs, but at about 1/3 of the value of the bike that's generally outside our price range.
Another problem most of us face is a lack of dyno availability. We diddle the carbs, look for seat of the pants performance, diddle the carbs some more and when it 'feels pretty good' go for a dyno run. Then we find out that the 'backside dyno' isn't very accurate since the results are relative rather than absolute and we try again.
You also haven't provided 'hands on' suggestions as Badmouth was originally soliciting. You've said you set up an Adventurer so how about sharing what you did rather than bombing us with technical minutiae?
While you were running in attack mode your initial technical points were incoherent but now that you've calmed down a bit you're making a lot more sense. You could be a big and appreciated asset to the group if you can keep the agression toned down.
Jim
__________________
Note: This post may have been altered without the knowledge or consent of the author.
|
