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Thanks everybody. After my third trip to the hardware store, I've got what I need, more or less, to face that middle cylinder. And TNSEN, you were right: Ace is the place with the helpful cheaply-made 18mm sockets.
As for getting the plug out, I tried the pinky approach, the tape on the socket approach, and the fuel line approach. No luck. But I may have blazed a new trail: you know those annoying little thread protectors that you have to take off of new spark plugs? Well, one of those things fits snugly into a piece of rubber fuel line hose, and then can be screwed down on the reluctant spark plug to draw it out. It's even a better way to put them back in.
Just to be sure (that confounded #*@%!!! manual still hasn't arrived), I should probably use NGK DPR 8EA-9, right?
Thanks again.
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"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
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