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Bonneville Handlebar Thread

1M views 1K replies 519 participants last post by  maartos 
#1 ·
Since so many questions are asked regarding handlebars, I decided to compile some pics of
various bikes/bars I've seen on the site. Hope this helps people who are interested in changing the bars on their Bonnie. Hopefully lots of people will post pics of their bars here.

I'll get us started:

Norman Hyde M-Bars-



Norman Hyde Ace Bars-



Low Cafe Bars-



Superbars-

 
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4
#7 ·
GS-E Type Bar - Chrome (use for XS Standard).
Width - 30", Rise - 4 1/8", Pullback - 10 1/2" x 7/8"Dia.
Part#25-0125

http://www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-chassis.php?category_id=1.4

Yeah, I know, the Scrambler has 7/8 bars and the Bonnie has 1"

Direct bolt-on with all cables and hoses. I left 3/4 past the grips at the bar ends because I like the way it looks.

WAY more comy to me than the stock flat bars. Tons of pullback gives me a relaxed, easy feel when ride.










 
#8 · (Edited)
Bars

Bella Corse Highlander bars on my 07 Bonneville.
These require longer cable sets, obtainable from New Bonneville or Bella Corse.
Since these pictures were taken, I have rotated the bars rearward as part of an adjustment.
Also note, the right hand grip will not rotate counter clockwise beyond a certain point due to the hydraulic reservoirs attachment. It just means that if you bring the bars back some, you can only get the r/h grip to roll back towards you all the way. Believe this is caused by the crimps on the bars for bending purposes.
Bill
 

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#12 ·
jerryb,
yeah i think i would find thruxton bar set up, pretty hard on the wrists too, but your clubmans, look ok too me, or is it your so happy with current ones you wouldnt change, clubmans look to have a nice shape.
i rushed in to order the risers, after my first long trip, after my hands mostly and a little in my wrists hurt. but have kinda gotten used to it. thought the small rise and inch less forward lean would be good. i do really like them now too and agree on the position of your back feels good. still when the risers get here keen to try them out. been over 2 months waiting. i didnt realise risers were needed to avoid hitting the tank. i think the distance in middle to bends, 9.25inch, then 10.62inch to end of bar, mostly middle part must avoid the tank. yeah your right about the brake lines, not nessecary really. i dont think it looks that special either, black looks fine. perhaps in other situations and setups, cosmetically they would be worth the effort.
i bouhg tmy bike from a dealer, would have liked to have bought it of the guy who owned it, and be able to ask questions of why he made some of the changes he did. etc
 
#14 ·
Anyone got the Norman Hyde M bars with the stock mirrors? Got a photo?

Those of you with M bars and bar end mirrors what's the width measurement at the widest point (outer edges of mirrors)?
Here's my bike when it was Goodwood Green with m-bars, and stock mirrors. Kinda miss the green sometimes. Lots more looks with Black/red though....



 
#17 ·
Big Cat, we meet again! Metal flake football harley style grips usually on e-bay in various colors. I run black ones on my Black and they're fairly commfy too. Foot rubbers of a similar style maybe ebay as well? Never really looked for them. I'm sure somewhere out there someone else has wanted metalflake rubber for there feet. Good luck with that, let me know if you find some.
 
#18 ·
M-bar dimensions/installation? Recommendations?

Forgive a newbie question. I'm finding that I'd like something just a bit narrower and more pulled-back than the stock bars on my '05 Bonneville. There are stiff joints and age issues, so I don't want to push myself into something too extreme, but I'm wondering if the M-bars would give me what I'm looking for. I really like the look of the Ace bars, but suspect that this old carcass - which, short legs and all, really needed Modre's peg-lowering kit - might find that a bit uncomfortable over the long haul.

So: can someone give the basic specs/dimensions of the M-bars so I can compare those to stock? (And, well, what would the Ace bars do to the ergonomics of the rest of the body, while we're at it?)

And how big a hassle would the switch be? I am loathe to mess with clutch cables and brake lines any more than absolutely necessary, since everything works just great right now.

Just got the old bicycle out from winter storage, and noticed how much more comfortable I found those bars, which are considerably narrower in span than the stock bars on the Bonnie..

Thanks all,

Owen
 
#23 ·
I'm inferring here that the actual switch procedure is a lot simpler than the description in the Haynes manual for removing handlebars????

That was a bit daunting to someone who'd never done it before, and involved taking apart the entire starter-button/brake-lever/throttle assemblage and such.

But am I right that you're implying that the entire throttle, brake, switch assembly can just be slid off the end of the bar and slid back onto the new one in one piece (assuming, of course, a reasonable loosening of the clamp screwss???

I've only ever removed rubber grips which were worn out and just cut 'em to bits, but I'd really like to preserve the ones I have. I guess I'd try the WD-40 trick. I also read somewhere than they can be nudged a bit with compressed air, too.

Anyway, am I right about that?

owen
 
#99 ·
I just ordered my self new Norman Hyde M bars in black for my black/white T100. Please forgive my ignorance. Am I to assume that when reinstalling the right hand control, it's just a matter of sliding it off the one bar and on to the other with no need to adjust throttle cable?
 
#24 ·
handlebar switch

Yes you can just loosen the throttle side and slide it off. You can also use soap and water to take the left grip off. Put some powder/liquid type soap in a container and put the bar in there for a while and it will come right off, the other type of removal works but this is less messy, air is also good. FWIW.
 
#29 ·
Yes you can just loosen the throttle side and slide it off. You can also use soap and water to take the left grip off. Put some powder/liquid type soap in a container and put the bar in there for a while and it will come right off, the other type of removal works but this is less messy, air is also good. FWIW.

One thing that sort of confused me, was that when I switched to M bars, I found that just "sliding" the throttle\controls off wasn't that simple. The amount I could slide both controls on the bars were limited by the slack of the cables which didn't seem long enough to reach the ends of the bars....so neither side allowed me to just slide it off.

I ended up taking apart the left controls which was simple, however the throttle controls were a bit more intimidating after I opened it up. So what I ended up doing after removing the left grip and controls, was to actually remove the bars themselves (with throttle housing put back together and still attached to the bars), and then I was able to slide the bars out from the throttle housing. Still a pretty simple task, but most instructions I found here said they could simply be slid off with bars still attatched.
 
#25 ·
I just put m bars on last night and all I did was pull the grip back a little and squirted a little hand sanitizer in there and it slid right off. :D Seemed to break the glue down pretty fast. I did rinse the grip off right away as I wasn't sure if it would eat at the rubber at all.
 
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