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ticking noise on startup...

12K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  buicknick72 
#1 ·
I've noticed a ticking noise for the first few seconds of startup in the cold (below 40f). It almost sounds like a valve tick, but just a single valve. It's hard to tell since it just did this the last 3 startups, but it sounds like it is in time with the engine. After a few seconds it just goes away completely.

Before I talk to my dealer, has anyone had anything like this?
Could I just be due for a valve service a bit early? all motorcycles I've had get tighter over time tho...

It's a 11 Sprint GT, 4500 miles.
 
#3 ·
Still has the oil from the dealer. It just started, or I just noticed it. I've don't think it's any colder than I've started it up in before.
 
#4 ·
Well, it could be something to talk to the dealer about. It would be strange if it were a valve issue. I'd be pretty surprised if the valves need adjusting at 4500 miles.

Ticking could be lots of things. My guess is that it's just a cold weather and oil issue. Since you are still on dealer oil, then my first recommendation would be to change the oil and put in a full synthetic like Mobile 1. I think it is 15w-50. You might find a full synthetic with 5w-40 or something, too. Regardless, I suspect that with a brand new engine and who-knows-what oil (could be a partial-synthetic blend) the oil has lost viscosity at 4500 miles and will sound and operate much better with an oil and filter change. The break in period can be hard on any engine oil. So, that should be the first thing to do.


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#5 ·
I probably should have said that I bought it from the dealer with 4000 miles already on the clock, it was a demo bike that one of the owners used as their personal bike. It was said to have synthetic in it.

I'm gonna listen to it more carefully, if it is an engine noise I'll do an oil change, if it's still there I'll go visit the dealer.
 
#10 ·
. . . I bought it from the dealer with 4000 miles already on the clock, it was a demo bike . . .
For goodness sake, why are you even thinking about messing about with it yourself?

Surely it's still under the manufacturers warranty, so if theres anything amiss, just take it back to the dealer to sort out.

Fair enough if you'd bought it privately with 50000 miles up, but this is a nearly new, very low mileage bike with a warranty.

Take it back & get them to listen. If theres anything wrong, they should fix it - and for free.
 
#7 ·
Be careful with manifold bolts.
In another post, the man thought a tick was a leaky manifold gasket and snapped the stud off in the head. If you have a leak there replace all three gaskets.
Never blindly tighten anything that isn't obviously loose. Always use a torque wrench on everything you can. If you over tighten steel into AL hard blindly, it will either crack the AL, strip it, or snap. Generally, when things get too loose, snugging back to torque may work only if you catch it right away. The gasket is usually ruined and could be how it became loose, not the other way round. Over tightening is never a fix. Trouble is, people don't realize how much mechanical advantage they are applying to things with tools until it is too late.
A manifold leak is easily felt with your hand and may leave carbon tracks any way.
Turned out that bike had an electrical leak at a coil, snapping/ticking as it grounded yet the thing ran fine. Dilectic silicone grease is a handy item in any tool box but won't fix a cracked coil.
I agree, change the oil.
You don't want to leave dirty oil in over the winter anyway.
It may be too thin and draining off the parts when it sits.
My experience with car dealers ? They would turn up the radio. Hope your bike dealer has a smart mechanic. Mention it just in case it seizes in the guide or blows a valve throught the head, then you've mentioned it.
Yes, change the oil and I bet it goes away.
 
#8 ·
Be careful with manifold bolts.
In another post, the man thought a tick was a leaky manifold gasket and snapped the stud off in the head. If you have a leak there replace all three gaskets.
Never blindly tighten anything that isn't obviously loose. Always use a torque wrench on everything you can. If you over tighten steel into AL hard blindly, it will either crack the AL, strip it, or snap. Generally, when things get too loose, snugging back to torque may work only if you catch it right away. The gasket is usually ruined and could be how it became loose, not the other way round. Over tightening is never a fix. Trouble is, people don't realize how much mechanical advantage they are applying to things with tools until it is too late.
.....
:welldoneGood post.
I would like to add that snugging back to torque is best done by loosening first, and then re-torquing.
 
#9 ·
It does it kinda random. Temperature doesn't seem consistent. It almost sounds more like a chain rattle, but it's for such a short time it's hard to tell. Still have to change the oil. Will keep updated.
 
#11 · (Edited)
The engine noise upon start up from cold could simply be nothing to worry about. I have much the same kind of noise on my own 1050 motor upon startup. It could be the cam chain tensioner. On the other hand, it could be a small exhaust leak at the head manifold. Difficult to tell from such a distance :)

For peace of mind, take the bike back to an authorized Triumph dealer for a professional to take a listen. If the bike is still under factory warranty such recourse should be a no-brainer!

Re: Valve clearances: Remember that a noisy tappet is in many respects a happy tappet. Very rarely will a tappet on a bucket and shim system (as on the Triumph triple engine) become noisy. As on modern Japanese bikes, valves over time will ordinarily tighten up, creating with it no noise! Unless the shims are adjusted within the given service period, such tightening up of the clearances (due to the pocketing of the valve in the seat) can and will lead to poor running, hard starting, and eventually burnt valves.

In my experience, all 955i (and 885) triple engines are more or less mechanically noisy -- even more so the earlier external alternator-equipped engines. It is part of their essential British character! After all, they are not UJM sewing machine engines! That said, Triumph have tried to address some of the noise by ditching external alternators as well as introducing an anti-backlash gear in the 1050.

Best of luck and be sure to keep us in touch with what your dealer reports.

 
#12 ·
I doesn't sound like an exhaust leak at all.

I am jealous of all of you that have quality trusted dealers! I know how my nearest dealer will treat it. It will either be - "we didn't hear anything" or "that's normal noise".

There are dealers with better reputations, but they are a bit farther away. So if it's something simple (like changing the oil), I'm just gonna fix it myself, but anything intensive I'll arrange to drop it off to a better dealer.

I'm starting to think its the cam chain tensioner not pumping up quick on start up, assuming it's tensioned with oil pressure? Getting fresh oil might help.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I am jealous of all of you that have quality trusted dealers! I know how my nearest dealer will treat it. It will either be - "we didn't hear anything" or "that's normal noise".
I would normally not let a dealer near any of my bikes. . . however, if i were in a position to buy a new (or nearly new) bike that was still covered by the manufacturers warranty, I would certainly use them for something like this.
Its THEIR problem to sort it out, not yours!
This is exactly the reason you pay over the odds for a bike from a dealer - for the warranty.

Also bear in mind that you will probably invalidate the warranty if you meddle with it yourself.

Even if they do come up with "they all sound like that sir", at least you have a record of the concern within the warranty period, so should a problem occur later in the engine's life, the franchised dealer should be able to take it up with the manufacturer & rectify it, as it was present - and reported during the warranty period.

Once its out of the warranty period, sod the dealer. Do it yourself.
 
#13 ·
nope, the tensioner is not pumped up by the oil.
 
#16 ·
Branchville is the one with a good reputation, it's not terribly far, but far enough to be inconvenient. I may have some free time next week to take a visit.
 
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