Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

Ridiculously easy AI disabling

191K views 444 replies 153 participants last post by  Richylew 
#1 ·
Ok, I've been mucking around on this forum for the better part of a year now and had my Bonnie for about 9 months. I've seen a lot about removing the Air Injection system and always figured I'd do it eventually. This weekend I finally got in a kit and set up TuneECU and did it.

Only to discover that I could have gotten the same performance results free and in about 2 minutes. Granted, this method isn't going to remove the pound or so of junk or clean up the look of your engine, but it absolutely will take care of the whole popping on deceleration thing along with accelerated pipe bluing. This follows the whole "stick a marble in the tube" concept, but most of the people who've done that imply altering the tubes between the cylinder head and the valve, which is a cramped space and has some pretty beefy connectors involved.

What you'll need:
1) A zip tie or two.
2) Something to plug an ~15mm hole or a marble/ball bearing to plug a ~10mm rubber hose.
3) The allen wrench to take off your seat.

Instructions:
1) Remove the seat.
2) Yank this tube out of your airbox.

3a) Plug the hole in the airbox with something. A rubber stopper of the appropriate size should work, or even tape over it.
3b) If you *really* want to look unaltered, you could shove a marble or ball bearing into the hose and plug it back into the airbox instead (if you do this, skip step 4).

4) Zip tie a kink in the tubing and shove it up under the gas tank. Be careful where you put it as the throttle cable/levers are in between the carbs/throttle bodies and you don't want to impede the movement there. If you think this might be a long-term solution, it'd be worthwhile to use another zip tie to secure the hose to your wiring harness or something else out of the way.

5) Put the seat back on and go for a test drive.

That's it. It's that easy. No worries about the engine light since the solenoid is still hooked up. No hardware to replace. Don't even need any tools other than maybe an allen wrench to get the seat off. If you're like most of us here, you'll probably want to eventually do a proper removal. But this method gets you the major benefits of an AI removal for the cost of two bits of junk you've probably got laying around the house and the hardest part is probably removing the seat.

Enjoy.
 
See less See more
3
#179 ·
Today I did the full AI removal - it was really, really easy. Two notes - the solenoid bracket does not use a T-30 torx bit on my 2013 as stated in various posts, it needs a smaller bit - and an Ace brand box wrench 13mm just works on the tubes without having to mangle anything.
 
#182 ·
I do have an EFI. Should have stated that. Thank you Forch. I will be doing this mod in a month or so. I'm going to ask my dealer to clear the ECU. I'd look in to the TuneECU program but I doubt they make a usb cable that is roughly 30 yards long. I do not own a lap top and I'm not sure if I could get the bike into the room my desk top is in :/
 
#183 ·
I'm going to ask my dealer to clear the ECU.
If the dealer is not using TuneECU I doubt he can delete the AI with the Triumph Diagnostic software. He can reset the fault code and turn off the fault light with it, yes, but it'll return as soon as the ignition is turned on if either the solenoid or a resistor are not fitted.

This is because the Factory can not legally contemplate cancelling an emissions item for a customer, so the AI delete function is not installed on their software.
 
#187 ·
Yeah, I did the complete removal and don't have a laptop to load TuneECU so I have a MIL on right now - need to try my buddy's crapintosh again and see if we can get it to work so I can turn of the SAI option.

Also, since I don't see a lot of mention and I was a bit unsure prior to delving in - any end caps/nipples are totally not needed, you just need the two bolts/washers & a plug for the airbox on EFI bikes. You can also pull the solenoid off it's bracket quite easily and can leave the bracket in place if you don't have a Torx bit of the appropriate size or don't want to Bubba it like I did.

Total time was 30mins-1hr and I'd rate it as very easy to do.
 
#189 ·
Doing this today!

Here's the plan for my 2013 Scram bafflectomy and easy AI trick. I wanted to post it with a couple questions.

1. Bafflectomy (1-1/8" hole saw + 12" screwdriver and vise grips)

2. AI disable ( marble or plastic plug, temporary until adjustable silencer arrives from slow boat. Will drain water periodically)

Questions: Do I need to do anything different being at 5220' here in Colorado?

Is the auto Adaption Rest mandatory or do I wait and see if snatchy throttle still exists?

I have many responses here that none of this will effect warranty status - can I get one more confirmation on this? You'll be held libel... :D

thx Rats!
 
#190 ·
How are you going to deal with the lean condition exacerbated by removing the baffle? I'd think at elevation it will be even worse.

If you are willing to cut-up the baffle why not just pull the AI, it takes maybe 30mins from pulling out the toolbox to putting it away and then you never need to think about it again - plus you lose a bit of clutter & weight.
 
#192 ·
The Magnusson-Moss Act makes it fairly safe to modify your vehicle and retain warranty but depending on your dealer, the mods, and the warranty issue it can certainly make it extremely difficult or unfeasible. I decided based on the mechanical history of these bikes and what AI removal entails that it is a non-concern for ME. Changing maps to non-stock is a no-no though so altering a stock map to turn of the MIL from complete AI removal could be a grey area (or at least I'm sure a dealer/Triumph might try to claim so).

Don't know why but I saw bafflectomy and was thinking airbox, not exhaust, my bad. I doubt opening up the stock exhaust has much effect based on past posts here, maybe if the bike runs a little poorly try the TOR map?
 
#193 ·
That clarifies things Icehawk - thx. Had been scratching my head on your previous response.

Bafflectomy complete and AI disabled w/ 20 minute rest procedure (idle-no throttle-off-ride). Much better sound and I haven't drilled through the 1st restrictor plate - yet. I'll work with this set up for a bit. I'm getting just slight popping on decel ~3500 revs that I'd like to get rid of.

Will the TORS map eliminate that light pop?

From all the reading I've done here (a lot) it appears I need get TuneECU and THEN run the 20 minute reset. I can't find that explicitly though.

In for a penny, in for a pound at his point.
 
#194 ·
Tried blocking the pipe with duct tape and it worked great at getting rid of the popping on deceleration which at times sounded nice and sporty and at other times like the bike was backfiring like a bitch. So i then removed the tape and took the plastic cap off an old tyre pressure gauge ( cap looks like big toothpaste tube lid) Perfect fit in the airbox end of the pipe and sits nicely before the first bend and the ridges on the pipe holding it in the air box. To alleviate condensation build up i took a thick needle, heated it and burned a small hole through the cap probably only a mil wide if that. Test ride in the morning to check the results.


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 
#195 ·
finally had the time and the sunshine to get this done...pulled the hose and stuffed this in there..
i unscrewed the one end of it and just left the smaller piece out...didnt seem like it was necessary..that left a small pinhole in the thing to hopefully avoid the water build up...zip tied it in place just for safety. and then let the bike idle for 20 mins....been out riding for a few hours...i noticed a huge difference...the popping on decel is down about 90%...and the bike just feels better...smoother...a bit more responsive....this mod took me all of 5 mins...thanks guys for all the info...
 
#196 ·
5 Minute AI Elimination

My 5 minute solution was to cut a 2 inch square piece of thick plastic bag, water softener salt bag in fact, and poke a little 1mm hole in the middle of the plastic to deal with the moisture issue.
Put a bit of dielectric grease around the opening to the air box, hold the plastic over the hose, jam it in the hole using screwdriver to guide it in and dress up the loose corners of plastic with some black electrical tape.

Finished up by running Mr. Forchetto's 20 minute auto-tune and the bike runs great.
 
#197 ·
Just finished an air injection disable on my 2012 T100 last weekend, thought a few might appreciate my take on it.

After reading the entire thread, I found that the basic idea was MOSTLY plug the AI intake, (then along came the sintered brass filter idea), but ALLOW a little airflow to prevent the water in the intake tube problem. Not having quick and easy access to a sintered brass filter, I came up with a slightly different solution, based on post # 65's use of an electrical twist connector, which I have lots of.

Before installation, in order to allow a small amount of airflow, I used a number 60 drill to drill a 0.040" hole in the end of the connector. Plugged it in and used a couple of small ty-raps to make sure that it did not move about in the intake hose.

Since this was done on a totally stock (until now) bike, I had not experienced much of the deceleration popping, but throttle input at low speed, low gear, resulted in "surges" (is this the snatchiness?) Since this mod, low speed, low gear throttle input has resulted in much milder response and better low speed control-ability. After riding some more this weekend, I shall pull the AI intake hose and check for moisture.

I will eventually do a complete AI removal, but I wanted to get more miles on the bike and a bit closer to warranty expiration first.

Next mod: TORS. Yes, I have been reading some of the silencer threads, watched videos and listened to soundclips. The Predators DO sound great! But since I want to maintain the stock "classic" appearance of my T100, the TORS will simply give me a bit better-sounding bike while maintaining the "look" that I appreciate.

My thanks and a tip of the hat to Forchetto, as his knowledge on Bonnevilles is accurate and well-written! I am currently reading about TUNEECU (cable just came in) so that I may remap after the TORS install.

This is a GREAT forum! Thanks to ALL that contribute!
 
#199 ·
A full seal is better IMO but there is water build up that needs to be dealt with, some are opting to go for partial blockage to allow drainage. I still recommend pulling the whole thing if you don't have dealer/warranty concerns - it's very simple and then you never need to think about it again.
 
#206 · (Edited)
@Hghunter. The normanhyde togas give a way better sound than the tors, much closer to the original retro sound and have the same look as stock but they slope upwards ,are a little shorter and way lighter than the tors.I've been using them for 12 months. They're the biz

@Bikerpiper. Thanks for the info! I have read lots of good things on this forum about the norman hyde togas, and, since the purchase has not yet been made, am still considering them.

Actually, the more posts I read about them, the more I lean that way!
 
#203 ·
Pulled the plug on what? Some folk here have referenced condensation building up in the blocked tube.

For me I went ahead and just removed the whole AI unit. I am much happier, even over blocking the tubes. I did have idle issues though afterwords and had to get my electronics reset. IDK why but the 20 minute idle cycle did not fix my issue. My dealer did however when resetting everything.
 
#202 ·
I got around to making a tool to remove the fittings in the heads out of a 13mm socket, tubing, and a nut welded on top.
I used the Triumph1.com kit which includes 2 head plugs w/washers, airbox plug, and a small vacuum plug.
Installed everything but the small vac plug, where does it go?
(2013 Bonneville mag wheel)
I didn't want to take off the full gas tank, so the hardware is still under there, for now, sans hoses.
 
#212 ·
You folks think I ought to wait until 1st maintenance before doing AI? Will it matter (especially since I'd be removing the solenoid, I guess, and remapping)? I started to do this, but then reconsidered.

The new exhaust should be fine though?

Let's see if I got this right for requirements:
-Run the bike until there's little to no gas and cooled off.. ask me why I think this needs to happen… :)
-8mm for tank
-13mm box wrench
-flathead screwdriver
-Torx ?
-ODB cable/TuneECU

Thx.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top