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You've probably done as tumbelweed said, posted in the pre hinkley section and got heaps of replies but:
Unless you are only going to be a second or so, always select neutral at traffic lights. The clutch on twins tends to slowly 'load' up ie drag the longer you wait, also as the bike gets hot sitting there idling. The trick is to select neutral as you come to the lights, most pre '80 twins [not all, but they are a rarity] will not select neutral once stopped and idling, they will once stalled though [which you don't want to do]. So click into neutral as you come to a stop but are still rolling.
It depends on whether it is gearbox or engine oil. Gearbox oil smells very pungent compared to engine oil. Gearbox oil filler is in the side of the gearbox cover on the right=timing side of the bike near the kickstarter. It is a 1" alloy bung with a slot in it. Engine oil can be replaced immediately between where the tank meets the seat. It goes into the frame. That is why your bike is called an oil in frame OIF bike. Use 80w/90 for the gearbox and a good quality 15w/50 for the engine. The engine oil can be changed to a 10w/40 during winter.
I think the large centre switches {changed mine around years ago so its not the same] are the high and low beam or blinkers. The four black buttons are kill, horn, flasher and a spare for electric start. All bikes had the switch, not all bikes had the electric start fitted, it was an option. Most riders actually shunned the es like the plague, it was too untraditional. I even modded mine and removed the es altogether. I sold my T160 and bought a T150 cos I hated the es on the T160 trident.
Blinkers are easy to re-fit, the wires are usually not removed. But they will be a bit $$$$$ for genuine or repro's. See if you can 'inherit' the blinkers in a bucket as well.
Avon used to make good tyres for the Bonnie. Gen II avon roadrunners, or speedmasters, but I'm afraid you'll have to shop around.
Use ONLY 96 or better octane, and a good upper cylinder additive like flashlube or Moreys. This is because the combustion chamber on these bikes was designed for leaded super. They can ping/pink/rattle under load with low octane and no upper lubricant. You add the flashlube to your fuel. These type of products are usually available at auto stores and some servo's/gas stations.
If you don't know your bike, or how to look after it [if you are a newb] but are willing to learn, I'd strongly suggest you buy a bike manual and find a coach. A coach is somebody that lives nearby and is into british bikes. Failing this a bike club that caters for british bikes. You will need help. These older bikes need an experienced owner to get the best out of them, everybody starts out a novice [I did], but the rewards are that it is 'built not bought'. I don't want to scare or intimidate, I just don't want to see you be overwhelmed by the bike thru lack of knowledge. A good coach will help you and you will learn at the same time.
Good luck.
[ This message was edited by: tridentt150v on 2005-06-14 17:36 ]
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tridentt150v,
Great Southern Land.
(Where women blow and men chunder).
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