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Compufire 55402 regulator install information

39K views 87 replies 19 participants last post by  Khemist01 
#1 ·
I have had some stator problems in the past and going off of the good thread that DEcosse put out, not only did I need to put a new stator in, I needed to put a new regulator in. I went with the Compufire 55402 regulator. I figure I would pass on what I know and see about giving back to the community.

The first thing to know is as far as of this post (Sept, 5th, 2010). No one seemed to have the regulator so I needed to get it from the factory itself. I did ask the sales person why no one seemed to have it. He told me that it is going to eventually be available through all of the normal retail channels, it is just taking a while. The part itself is not new, it is just new having it as a separate component. In the past it was always available as part of a kit.
So bottom line, check Dennis Kirk, if it says available soon, just call the compufire factory and get it directly from them.

Here is a picture of the new regulator next to the original.



As you can see the Compufire is a little smaller than the original, it is a little higher but there is plenty of vertical room so that is not an issue. As luck would have it, the holes even matched up pretty close. I had enough slop in the mounting holes on the bike that no modification was necessary. Here is a picture of the new regulator on top of the old one. The pic isn't the best but the idea is conveyed.



The Compufire comes with weather pack connections for the stator and an empty female weather pack connection.



The nice part with this is you can go down to your local NAPA store and get the missing coponents. They should give you 3 male connectors. (Male metal pieces go in the female plastic part). They should give you something that looks like this.



The other nice thing is the power connection comes with a female spade, but also an inline fuse connection so the spade can plug into it and then the other end of the inline fuse has a connection to go on the bolt on the battery. It gives a little more flexibility that way. The 40 amp fuse is because the regulator is a 40 amp model.



I put the spade into the fuse and hooked it directly to the battery. The original regulator connection has 7 wires coming out of it and the Compufire has 5. 3 of the wires are for the stator and the other ones are ground and power. The original regulator has 2 power wires and 2 ground wires. If you trace the wires you will find they merge and are in the midway between the battery and the rest of the electronics.

What happens is if you don't use the 4 prong connector and just hook the power and ground to the battery is you have a 40 amp fuse from the regulator to the battery and from the battery to the other electronics you have a 30 amp fuse. (It's fuse 11 in the fuse box.) Leaving the 4 prong unconnected doesn't have any effect because there is still the normal wire that goes from the battery to the fuse box. I would have a pic but didn't want to get in trouble taking a pic of the service manual. The short version is think of a 3 way connection, one goes to the battery, one to the fuse box and one to the original regulator. Having the regulator not connected doesn't bother the battery and fuse box. If this isn't clear feel free to add a question to the post.

Have fun adding a Compufire 55402 series regulator to your machine.
 
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#3 ·
Looks like they manufacture stators for HD and package it together with their R/R. Perhaps they should add Stator + R/R package for S3 & Daytona.

Vsteel, thank you for the write up. What are the voltages you are getting on the battery during idle and higher RPM ?
 
#4 ·
That would be great if they bundled a stator and regulator. I don't know if it would happen, but it wouldn't be hard for someone to come up with some kind of package deal for people.

I measured voltage at 14.3 no matter what RPM. When you first fire it up it will take about 5 seconds for it to come up to 14.3 but after that it is rock solid.
 
#12 ·
My stators failed after about 11 - 12K each time. Time wise I got 2 years out of each one. Technically I guess I won't know for sure until late in 2012 or 2013 and around 36K miles

DeCosse - Yes, no advantage of swapping out the stator if it is still good. I just figured no one would be swapping out the regulator unless they were chewing through stators. The stator that broke the camel's back so to speak.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for reply vsteel. The reason I was asking is, that I heard from another S3 owner about a 3rd fried stator (he had F012 mod in place). He said his stators went out on him every 10 - 12k miles or 2 years regardless of which R/R he used.

Gotta say that FH012 mod was great for my battery (always well charged), but I got nervous about getting stranded on a side of the road with a fried stator. (again) So, I ordered Compufire 55402 today. Should be here in a week. Going to replace the FH012 just for the peace of mind.
 
#32 ·
... The connector from eBay. Here goes http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=360602300515
^^^ That would means changing the one on the R/R side too (which is already there) and those 10ga terminals are too big for the OEM stator wires, where you want 14-16 ga
So I would recommend not to actually select that one.

You either need just terminals and seals (the Compufire kit should actually come with the mating shell you need - just doesn't include the terminals for some bizarre reason) - or get complete connector if you want to be sure.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-Weat...pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item35c0f856fe&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-Weat...pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item338a688f26&vxp=mtr (only the male half required - the female is already on the R/R)

Those male terminals are also available at Napa Autoparts if you have one locally
If searching, look for WeatherPack Terminals.

This is what you get with a Compufire:

Note that it has the 3-way female Weatherpack already on the R/R - and includes the mating shell (although as mentioned, no terminals!)





This image shows the mating connector shell and also the included FuseHolder for the positive output
The mating shell needs 14-16ga MALE terminals and seals



The output cables are REALLY long - your options are to either
a) just loop the excess and zip tie them up
b) Replace the Fuse Holder and battery terminals to shorten them to appropriate length.

If you go the latter, you will need a quality replacement Fuse Holder (cannot re-use the original) and will need to ensure that you make stellar connections to it.

An option for connection is to connect the Positive to the terminal on the Solenoid and the Negative to the engine Ground - that way you don't have those extra terminals on your battery and are more permanently attached and unaffected when battery removed.
You must be VERY careful to get the polarity correct - both output cables are very similar! (same black colour wire is used - just has small ID tag on them - although obviously the positive has the Fuse)
 
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