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You also have to realize that Triumph is trying to keep warrantee work to a minimum, If they told you to use motomans method, You know some people will exploit the instructions and hang at the redline just banging the throddle during break in,
Most of us have all exploited our Break-in instructions, even with the delicate first (100 mile 3500 RPM Max!)
How many of you have gone little past that maximum RPM?
I sure have.
Most of us won't even realize that our cylinders are glazed with tarnished burned oil in gaps from improper ring seating after break-in ( full synthetic oil isn't as bad for this)
Where the combustion gasses slip past the gaps in the rings to the oil and contaminate other internal parts,
Most of us are laymen and not mechanics
We will think our oil is suppose to be black and foul smelling when we do a change.
You also won't really realise the power loss unless you do a dyno compairison or compression test.
the bike will still be faster and stronger than most of us can handle even with a little power loss.
I guess what I am tring to say is....
Understand Triumphs liability to warrantee concerns, this is why they wrote the break-in so gingerly, they know some of us are going to s-t-r-e-t-c-h the boundries somewhat,
We didn't buy this bike to putt-putt around,
Some people are going to push the boundries and I am sure they have allowed room for human nature to break the rules.
Read Motomans guide, Understand what he is trying to say
I have spent many years as a Mechanic
and have rebuilt many engines- Airplanes, Cars, motorcycles, weedeaters,
you get the point.
You don't have to beat the ***** out of your bike to get the rings to seat but you do need to roll on the power early in the break-in to force the rings against the walls of the cylinders.
Rings are designed with a taper on the upper surface to "catch and expand" during combustion.
Because the honing on the cylinders is being worn away by the rings rather quickly ( the honing roughness in the cylinders is what shapes the rings to fit the shape of the cylinders)
One thing I have learned...An engine is an engine is an engine
same basic principals in a different bottle.
No sub atomic ceramic matrix metal alloy cylinder with a kevlar pistons and some crazy composite rings...yet
even then, the rings will need to seat with the cylinders and if the honing is worn down before the rings seat...time to re-hone and get new rings or just deal with the loss...If you even notice
Triumph is banking on the fact that most will never know if the rings are properly seated or not, and warrantee work will be minimal, and the bike will run fine for quite a while, at least till the warrantee period is up.
I would say baby it a little for the first 100 don't pound on it
Do some mild roll ons .
After that
Roll the power on smooth, steady and strong through a few gears, not to the redline, use some common sense.
occasionally to 7000 + RPM's, 8000 tops
"Deceleration really doesn't do that much"
And holding a constant throddle speed does nothing but polish away the valuable honing.
rolling on forces the rings to expand to press against the cylinders.
Thats why they tell you to vary the throddle.
In the end ,
do what you want for break-in
If the rings don't seat totally, chances are , You will never know
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Few things are harder to put up with than the annoyance of a good example.
Mark Twain [Samuel Langhornne Clemens] (1835-1910)
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