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post #2 of (permalink) Old 09-25-2008, 02:02 PM
htown16
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Houston, tx
Posts: 1,236
Here goes.
Yes, unscrew the knurled ring holding the clutch cable into the housing. The cable should have enough slack in it that you can touch the lever to the handle bar with no resistance.
The chain that connects the engine to the transmission is called the primary chain and it is located inside the case on the left of the engine/transmission unit, called the primary side or drive side. On the face of case cover towards the rear there is a plug about 1.5" in diameter. This is the access to adjust the clutch pressure plate. Remove the plug and you will see a slotted screw secured with a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw clockwise until you feel resistance. At this point the screw is bearing against the clutch push rod and causing the pressure plate to lift. Now back the screw off 1/2 turn and tighten up the lock nut. Don't let the screw turn when you are tightening up the lock nut.
I find that a box wrench with a deep offset works well for this. Reinstall the plug and go back to the clutch lever and tighten the ring until you have about a 1/8" play when you squeeze the lever before the cable tightens. You don't want it too tight. If there is not enough play in the cable, go to the other end of the cable above the transmission. Slide the boot up and you will see another adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and screw the adjuster
into the case to give you more slack in the cable. Vice versus if you are trying to take up excess slack. Most of the time you won't have to mess with this adjuster unless you are installing a new cable. To check the adjustment, with bike off pull the clutch in and cycle the kick starter a couple of times, after a couple of kicks, it should kick through without any resistance from the engine. If not, try tightening the the main adjuster and cable tension a little to get more lift on the pressure plate. Now with the clutch lever released kick it through. It should turn the engine over, if not it is adjusted to tite and the discs are slipping.
Sometimes, its a fine line with these clutchs between dragging and slipping. If an adjustment doesn't solve the problem, its probably time to pull the primary cover and have a look at the clutch discs. Highly recommend you get a factory parts book so that you can see what the components look like in an exploded view.
I am wondering if our moderator could make a sticky out of this?

Htown16, Houston, Texas
1978 T140E Bonneville, 1974 Trident, 1972 Commando, 1971 Commando
1974 Commando, 1970 BSA Thunderbolt, 2004 XL 1200R Sportster
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