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Verno,
Firstly, your battery is pretty close to being stuffed. Being a sealed unit, not much you can do except to try to discharge it to 10V under a light (ie not heavy) load (eg 21W 12V light globe), and re-charge it to 14V, but this may take 10-15 goes to get it back to a semi-usable condition - it will never be trustworthy again. Better off replacing it with a maintenance free AGM type. Charge on the bench for 4 hours or so at less than 1 amp before putting it in the bike. NEVER use a 4-6 amp car battery charger on a bike battery - it will cause serious damage.
Next, you need to check your rectifier - use the instructions in the doc I sent you, or spend $5 and replace the current one with a solid state one - 20Amp Bridge rectifier. If the rectifier is cactus, or even if one diode out of the four is bad (shorted), it will cause rapid discharge of the battery, poor or no charging, and backflow through the alternator stator winding (very bad).
The problem is the Boyer is not getting what it needs to run properly - a consistent voltage about 10V, and current source to switch the coils on/off. As soon as it starts to switch the coils on, the current draw from the weak battery causes the volatge to drop below 10V, and the Boyer quits, which allows the volatge to rise, the boyer swicthes back on, tries to run the coils, etc etc - could be the buzz you hear.
Once you've replaced the battery, and are totally satisfied the rectifier is OK, use NHOJ's swap method to isolate one particular component if you're still having problems with one side.
Hope this helps.
Pete
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Per Ardua Ad Astra
(Through difficulties to the stars)
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